I suppose it is a good sign that I haven't written for so long - I'm in a supreme state of chilled-out-ness!!
Jon and I are still in Nkhata Bay, having found a fantastic backpackers' lodge with dents in the sofa that have our names on them... Every time we thought about leaving there has been some reason not to, but we will definitely be going on Wednesday with the owners who are going to Lilongwe.
Last week were the Malawian elections, which engulfed the whole town. Hearing that the result had been challenged and that riots are common place, we decided to lay low for a for days. It's good to see people so fired up by politics - it's been the centre of conversation for weeks - until you find out that one of the candidates was stood at the poling station bribing people to change their votes! It doesn't sound that different to the first elections my grandfather helped organise (in Zomba) in the 1960s where the candidate went 'unopposed' - pole sana Papa...
Let me bring you up to date a bit.
Taking the advice of The Lonely Planet and the Tourist Information office at Mbeya, we took the MV Songea from 'Itungi Port' to Mbamba Bay. The port was, in fact, not at Itungi but at the end of a dirt track through a small village; we would never have found it if it wasn't for the cheeky taxi driver. It was fantastic! The major port consisted of: 1 rusty portacabin (booking office), 1 reed hut (departure lounge and cafe), 1 rickety jetty and 2 old, slightly rusty, ferries.
Thankfully we had one of the 6 cabins on the top deck; if we had not splashed out we would have been herded like cattle into the oven-like hold with the other 100 or so passengers. So we rather guiltily enjoyed out 21 hour trip down the most stunning lake. We skirted the Livingstonian Mountains (Tanzania side) for the majority of the journey, stopping at tiny beaches to deliver a crate of coca cola or sack of grain. They are hugely craggy mountains that were wrenched in two (part of the Great Rift Valley). Consequently, they look like beautifully baked bread that has been torn apart.
Mbamba Bay seemed a bit bemused at our arrival - "tourists? Really? I remember those..." It certainly wasn't what we were expecting (all hopes of an ATM quickly vanished) but was one of those utterly fantastic jewels you stumble on by accident.
To be continued...
Monday, 25 May 2009
Wednesday, 6 May 2009
Part 2 of the African adventure!
Wednesday 6th May 2009
Part 2 of the African adventure is well and truly underway: Jon and I are leaving Mbeya (where we have been since Saturday) early tomorrow, on the first stage of rather zig-zag ferry travel on Lake Malawi, from Itungi Port to Mbamba Bay on the eastern shore, Tanzanian side.
It’s been a busy time since I last wrote, not leaving much time for blog updates, ‘pole sana’. Before my journey to Dar [es Salaam], I had plenty to do with admin and posting newly tailored clothes back to the family, etc. What I hadn’t planned on was having to spend much of my time in the police station and unravelling the mess, with my magnificent mother’s help, that a stolen wallet and iPod entails. Although it was very frustrating and disappointing (I think some of the kids took my iPod) it didn’t spoil my last days in Arusha.
My ‘social diary’ was full to bursting – Mkooosi, Mashoto and Mkala did their best to keep me full of chi and I took a few meals with various staff members too.
I got particularly close to Mama Mkala, who I think relished the opportunity of mothering a surrogate daughter for a while. It was fantastic – I really felt like part of the family, eating, sleeping, slobbing, joking and plucking chickens! Mkala had offered for me to spend the whole time there, so out of politeness I stayed a night in their two-roomed house, loved it, so came back for more! After my wallet was stolen I just wanted a friend and a hug, so felt more than comfortable in inviting myself round and joining in the chores (I helped pluck, gut and roast a chicken that night – fantastic!) Mkala always gets close to volunteers but she said she had enjoyed my company the most. She was so sweet!
Anyway, moving forwards to the emotional reunion with my lovely Jon.
Everything went according to plan in my ‘book of independent travelling’ and on a swelteringly hot day (almost Zanzibar temperatures) I planted myself directly opposite the [airport] arrivals gate, craning my neck to see Jon come through immigration. After over an hour and a faulty arrivals board, I left my spot to find a drink, and in that time Jon arrived. WELL! It didn’t matter though; at that point I was only feet away so our Hollywood-style reunion still happened (without having to send the strings home...) it was every bit as good as the three months of anticipation.
We decided to push the boat out and stay two nights at the charming and, crucially, air conditioned Swiss-gardened hotel. Nice room, nice food, nice shower. It seemed to be a hot spot for businessmen and at the delicious buffet suppers we were treated to an array of delightfully dull characters, some more amiable than others...!
As the heat, cost and hustle and bustle of Dar was too much to bear, we left a.s.a.p. by coach to Mbeya in the south, near the Malawian and Zambian borders. Good decision. It’s a lovely little town cradled in the lush mountains where everything is within walking distance and dirt cheap. I’ve been staying in a great guest house where you get a big room and bathroom for about £3 each a night and good honest Tanzanian food for about £1.50!
Tomorrow we are getting a bus then a 4x4 to Itungi Port, where our ferry for Mbamba Bay departs (a 21-hour [overnight] journey – my idea of blissful travel!) As Mbamba Bay looks a pretty chilled out sort of a place, we plan on spending some time there before heading for the more touristy but picturesque Nkata Bay on the Malawian side. That’s the plan. No doubt Travellers’ Providence will have a few ideas of its own for us along the way!
We’ll keep you posted whenever we can use the Internet.
TTFN
L&J
xxx
Monday, 20 April 2009
Last Day – Friday 17 April
On Friday we bid an emotional farewell to Sekei Primary School (although I will be staying in the house for 10 more days). Today Amy and Cat are flying home and Pippa is moving to Enaboishu Secondary School.
As my last lesson I did an award ceremony – ten pupils got a certificate and a prize (pencil case or pen) for effort, achievement, most helpful, best handwriting and most funny. I also bought three huge bags of sweets and gave each in the class a bundle with a name tag. They loved it; some of them looked so proud that I thought their grins would split their faces apart! Afterwards we played hangman, and they wrote things like “We love you, Madam Lucie” and “Goodbye Madam Lucie, God bless.” That made me cry. Alot! Faraja came up and wiped the tears off my face and all 70 kids mobbed me with hugs and kisses. I love my pupils – I’m really going to miss them.
Mr Hockey ushered us into his office to say thank you for what we had done, and then it was time to go to the staffroom. Over the sainted cup of chai, Mr Mkoosi stood up and gave a very moving speech that jerked the tears for a second time. We were then presented with kitenges (huge sheets of fabric used for clothes) which were tied around us in the Masai style – a traditional Tanzanian ceremony. All of us were crying rivers at this point, along with some of the staff!
I can’t believe how quickly the end of teaching has come round. It hasn’t at all been an easy ride – there have been many times when I felt I was banging my head against a brick wall and wishing I was anywhere but here. They have, however, been vastly outweighed by the satisfaction of knowing I myself have taught the children something; seeing them excited by a lesson; winking at them and them high-fiving me back; sharing a joke (“kichizi kama ndizi” – you crazy banana!); their excitement at getting their new display board; and the letters, notes and drawings handed to me, all say “we love you”.
This isn’t the final, final goodbye though. I’ve got ten days living in the house by myself before going to Dah to meet Jon (HURRAY!!!) so will still have hoards of kids at the door and will go to the staffroom for chai if I’m around at break time. I’ll have plenty to do with collecting clothes, sending parcels home, packing, cleaning the house, converting money, booking my bus ticket, cooking for teachers, and hopefully a few social calls too.
Thank you to everyone who has taken such an interest in what I have been doing, and for the donations towards desks, display board and books. It genuinely has been a great support knowing there are people at home thinking about me, and giving me the encouragement to do more pro-active things such as painting the school.
I will continue to update my blog with thoughts and reflections about my time here, as and when, and of course some tales from travelling. But as for updates about teaching: “T-t-that’s all folks!”
L
xxx
As my last lesson I did an award ceremony – ten pupils got a certificate and a prize (pencil case or pen) for effort, achievement, most helpful, best handwriting and most funny. I also bought three huge bags of sweets and gave each in the class a bundle with a name tag. They loved it; some of them looked so proud that I thought their grins would split their faces apart! Afterwards we played hangman, and they wrote things like “We love you, Madam Lucie” and “Goodbye Madam Lucie, God bless.” That made me cry. Alot! Faraja came up and wiped the tears off my face and all 70 kids mobbed me with hugs and kisses. I love my pupils – I’m really going to miss them.
Mr Hockey ushered us into his office to say thank you for what we had done, and then it was time to go to the staffroom. Over the sainted cup of chai, Mr Mkoosi stood up and gave a very moving speech that jerked the tears for a second time. We were then presented with kitenges (huge sheets of fabric used for clothes) which were tied around us in the Masai style – a traditional Tanzanian ceremony. All of us were crying rivers at this point, along with some of the staff!
I can’t believe how quickly the end of teaching has come round. It hasn’t at all been an easy ride – there have been many times when I felt I was banging my head against a brick wall and wishing I was anywhere but here. They have, however, been vastly outweighed by the satisfaction of knowing I myself have taught the children something; seeing them excited by a lesson; winking at them and them high-fiving me back; sharing a joke (“kichizi kama ndizi” – you crazy banana!); their excitement at getting their new display board; and the letters, notes and drawings handed to me, all say “we love you”.
This isn’t the final, final goodbye though. I’ve got ten days living in the house by myself before going to Dah to meet Jon (HURRAY!!!) so will still have hoards of kids at the door and will go to the staffroom for chai if I’m around at break time. I’ll have plenty to do with collecting clothes, sending parcels home, packing, cleaning the house, converting money, booking my bus ticket, cooking for teachers, and hopefully a few social calls too.
Thank you to everyone who has taken such an interest in what I have been doing, and for the donations towards desks, display board and books. It genuinely has been a great support knowing there are people at home thinking about me, and giving me the encouragement to do more pro-active things such as painting the school.
I will continue to update my blog with thoughts and reflections about my time here, as and when, and of course some tales from travelling. But as for updates about teaching: “T-t-that’s all folks!”
L
xxx
Friday, 17 April 2009
Easter Day
A very (belated) happy Easter to everyone!
This was an Easter I will never forget - I spent it at an African Orphanage.
The Bourka group of volunteers go regularly to an orphanage just outside Ngaramtoni, North of Arusha, so they invited us along. We went to their church service which was bursting at the seams with singing and dancing, helped hand out three huge bags of clothes recently donated, and ate ugali with the founder, Jane.
Jane, an inspirational childless woman, felt she had three visions from God in dreams five years ago guiding her to look after the local children. She now takes care of 5 kids as her own and runs a drop-in style orphanage serving 250. Not all of the children have lost both parents - most live with grandparents or surviving parent and use the orphanage as an escape, support and place to simply have fun. Everything Jane does is rooted in her incredibly strong born-again belief in God: "people do not understand why I do this - they think it is like a business - but it is all the will of the Lord. There may be future Bishops here, so I must take care of them".
Having said that the Comic Relief image is just that, an image, I may have to admit to some exceptions. Granted, I was only there for a few hours but the cliche that the less you have the happier you are really appeared to be true. These children just want love, so unlike some of the Sekei kids, when they want a hug or to be your friend they do not expect anything in return. During the service a little girl came and sat on my lap, and fell asleep cradled in my arms - one of those deeply touching moments that stay with you for a long time! They were so excited to get the new clothes that were donated by a local Pastor - a new outfit is always something to strut around in wherever you are!
There is one mama who makes the lunchtime ugali in the biggest pot I've ever seen. The orphanage obviously gets a fair bit of aid, as they have a brilliant water pump in the yard - the sort you send as Oxfam Xmas cards. I'm pleased to report they are well worth buying, they've made a big difference. We all squeezed into the office to have lunch with Jane and her husband, which was such fun. They've lots of amusing stories (such as Jane having a spell cast on her by a witch doctor so she would marry her Maasai husband!!) and I'm not sure you could have crammed in any more of Jane's poignant speeches!
I'm so glad I went along - it was such a memorable and insightful day, and took the edge off missing my friends and family!
Lxxx
This was an Easter I will never forget - I spent it at an African Orphanage.
The Bourka group of volunteers go regularly to an orphanage just outside Ngaramtoni, North of Arusha, so they invited us along. We went to their church service which was bursting at the seams with singing and dancing, helped hand out three huge bags of clothes recently donated, and ate ugali with the founder, Jane.
Jane, an inspirational childless woman, felt she had three visions from God in dreams five years ago guiding her to look after the local children. She now takes care of 5 kids as her own and runs a drop-in style orphanage serving 250. Not all of the children have lost both parents - most live with grandparents or surviving parent and use the orphanage as an escape, support and place to simply have fun. Everything Jane does is rooted in her incredibly strong born-again belief in God: "people do not understand why I do this - they think it is like a business - but it is all the will of the Lord. There may be future Bishops here, so I must take care of them".
Having said that the Comic Relief image is just that, an image, I may have to admit to some exceptions. Granted, I was only there for a few hours but the cliche that the less you have the happier you are really appeared to be true. These children just want love, so unlike some of the Sekei kids, when they want a hug or to be your friend they do not expect anything in return. During the service a little girl came and sat on my lap, and fell asleep cradled in my arms - one of those deeply touching moments that stay with you for a long time! They were so excited to get the new clothes that were donated by a local Pastor - a new outfit is always something to strut around in wherever you are!
There is one mama who makes the lunchtime ugali in the biggest pot I've ever seen. The orphanage obviously gets a fair bit of aid, as they have a brilliant water pump in the yard - the sort you send as Oxfam Xmas cards. I'm pleased to report they are well worth buying, they've made a big difference. We all squeezed into the office to have lunch with Jane and her husband, which was such fun. They've lots of amusing stories (such as Jane having a spell cast on her by a witch doctor so she would marry her Maasai husband!!) and I'm not sure you could have crammed in any more of Jane's poignant speeches!
I'm so glad I went along - it was such a memorable and insightful day, and took the edge off missing my friends and family!
Lxxx
Wednesday, 15 April 2009
Safari (almost there folks!)
Right, time to talk about the animals.
I imagined David Attenborough at every turn, it was like stepping into an episode of Planet Earth! Name a safari animal and we will have seen it: lions, elephants, leopards, water buffalo, rhino, giraffes, zebras, cheetahs, impala, hyenas, hippos, ostriches, flamingos, buffalo, wildebeest, gazelles, lizards, monkeys, baboons, eagles, secretary birds (love the name) and many many others.
Zebras, impala and wildebeests roamed all three parks like exotic versions of New Forest ponies, deer and cattle. The first day we wanted to get every zebra on camera, but by the end it was more like "oh, there's a zebra...meh...!" There are still so many sights that I cannot possibly imagine getting blaze about. As I can't write about every single 'animal encounter', I will present the prizes to different categories (drum roll).
Most exhilirating
Cheetahs, Serengeti
After an hour of not seeing much, Charles got a tip-off from a fellow driver that sent him screeching off in the opposite direction to a dry lake bed. We arrived with pink cheeks and hair all over our faces not knowing what we were going to see, and edged in furtively (strictly speaking we weren't allowed to be there, but Charles had a decent sense of adventure...). Under a tree were two beautiful cheetahs sleeping. We got within 3 feet of them and could see every little detail. After a few quick snaps we hurridly left the area and continued on our way. Did you know Cheetah's aren't true cats because their claws don't retract?
Most impressive
Elephant, Ngorogoro Crater
We had several sightings of elephants through the trees, but one in particular stuck in my mind. As we were driving through the forest on the edge of the NC we heard a rustle, looked round, and saw the most beautiful, impressive, enormous but graceful animal I've seen. It was a bull elephant, and was munching away about 10ft from the jeep. I know their ears are big, but I had not appreciated quite how enormous they are until he flapped them. They are about 2/3 the size of the whole elephant! Did you know Most elephants' tusks are different lengths. This is because they are the equivalent of right and left handed - they use one side of their head more when rootling for food, so one tusk gets worn down quicker than the other.
Most 'Lion King'
Lion, Serengeti
In the distance we saw a huge male sitting like a sphinx on the edge of a kopje (rock), surveying the 'endless plain'. We did feel the need to sing the Disney soundtrack, I'm afraid...
Lion encounter 2 We saw quite a few lions asleep, but in the Ngorogoro Crater we were treated to a male leaving his pack of three sleeping females to cross the road right in front of us, pose in the sunlight, and flirt with two more females. They are so beautiful, it's hard to imagine them tearing animals to shreads (but I'm willing to believe it!)
Most scary
Hyenas, Serengeti
They were the first animals we saw in the Serengeti (apart from zebras), and actually very impressive. There was a small pack of them wandering over to some carrion on the side of the road. They really are hideous looking creatures. Their front legs are far longer than their back, so they walk with a strange gait (like a gorilla). Their faces are pretty grizzly and their fur is not what I call groomed. All in all, impressive, but grusome!
Most smelly
Hippos, Serengeti and Lake Manyara
We had two opportunities to see a pool full of hippos: a very touristy 'view point' in Lake Manyara, and a much more natural view in the Serengeti where we stood on a rock above a river and covered our noses as we watched over 100 hippos sleeping, mating, grunting and generally stinking! I can't stress it enough - they really really smell!! I loved seeing them - they've always been something I associate with Africa and 'adventure' (probably from the stories Papa told me about his expidition days in the Bangweulu Swamps) so I had to pinch myself. I have moments like that when I can't believe I'm actually here!
Most rare
Leopards, Serengeti and Rhino, Ngorogoro Crater
Charles was preparing us not to see any leopards, as we'd already seen 3 out of the Big Five and you have to be very lucky to spot any. However, we saw a group of jeeps under a tree so screeched to a halt, looked up, and there were two leopards dozing in the tree above our head! At one point the female woke up, growled at the male, paced the branch, and settled back down with all four paws and tail dangling. Very exciting.
On our last day, the only animal we hadn't seen was the Black Rhino (which are cunningly actually white...). There are only 28 in the Ngorogor Crater, so we didn't really expect to see any. Eagle-eyed Charles, however, spotted what looked like a rock to us. As we tried to identify which of the nearby rocks it was, it stirred, got up and posed very thoughtfully for us!
Most funny
Monkeys, Ngorogoro Crater
We stopped for a loo break in a car park in the trees at the NC, that was littered with 'cheeky monkeys'... One jumped off the roof of the loo block onto James' feet, one came in our jeep window then left when we said "erm, Charles, there appears to be a monkey in the car", but the funniest incident by far was yet to come. One climbed in the roof of the other jeep, with most of the volunteers still in it, and erm, 'did it's business' in Katy's seat! Katy brought hair straighteners. It was very funny.
Briefly, our accomodation was the most luxurious I've ever stayed in and the buffet's were the highlights of our stays...we fell on it like hyenas - might as well make the most of it!
Wow, I've written such a lot and feel like I've barely started! I'm so glad I went. Thank you to Mum and Dad, it is my birthday and Christmas presents for years to come - and what a present...
Lxxx
I imagined David Attenborough at every turn, it was like stepping into an episode of Planet Earth! Name a safari animal and we will have seen it: lions, elephants, leopards, water buffalo, rhino, giraffes, zebras, cheetahs, impala, hyenas, hippos, ostriches, flamingos, buffalo, wildebeest, gazelles, lizards, monkeys, baboons, eagles, secretary birds (love the name) and many many others.
Zebras, impala and wildebeests roamed all three parks like exotic versions of New Forest ponies, deer and cattle. The first day we wanted to get every zebra on camera, but by the end it was more like "oh, there's a zebra...meh...!" There are still so many sights that I cannot possibly imagine getting blaze about. As I can't write about every single 'animal encounter', I will present the prizes to different categories (drum roll).
Most exhilirating
Cheetahs, Serengeti
After an hour of not seeing much, Charles got a tip-off from a fellow driver that sent him screeching off in the opposite direction to a dry lake bed. We arrived with pink cheeks and hair all over our faces not knowing what we were going to see, and edged in furtively (strictly speaking we weren't allowed to be there, but Charles had a decent sense of adventure...). Under a tree were two beautiful cheetahs sleeping. We got within 3 feet of them and could see every little detail. After a few quick snaps we hurridly left the area and continued on our way. Did you know Cheetah's aren't true cats because their claws don't retract?
Most impressive
Elephant, Ngorogoro Crater
We had several sightings of elephants through the trees, but one in particular stuck in my mind. As we were driving through the forest on the edge of the NC we heard a rustle, looked round, and saw the most beautiful, impressive, enormous but graceful animal I've seen. It was a bull elephant, and was munching away about 10ft from the jeep. I know their ears are big, but I had not appreciated quite how enormous they are until he flapped them. They are about 2/3 the size of the whole elephant! Did you know Most elephants' tusks are different lengths. This is because they are the equivalent of right and left handed - they use one side of their head more when rootling for food, so one tusk gets worn down quicker than the other.
Most 'Lion King'
Lion, Serengeti
In the distance we saw a huge male sitting like a sphinx on the edge of a kopje (rock), surveying the 'endless plain'. We did feel the need to sing the Disney soundtrack, I'm afraid...
Lion encounter 2 We saw quite a few lions asleep, but in the Ngorogoro Crater we were treated to a male leaving his pack of three sleeping females to cross the road right in front of us, pose in the sunlight, and flirt with two more females. They are so beautiful, it's hard to imagine them tearing animals to shreads (but I'm willing to believe it!)
Most scary
Hyenas, Serengeti
They were the first animals we saw in the Serengeti (apart from zebras), and actually very impressive. There was a small pack of them wandering over to some carrion on the side of the road. They really are hideous looking creatures. Their front legs are far longer than their back, so they walk with a strange gait (like a gorilla). Their faces are pretty grizzly and their fur is not what I call groomed. All in all, impressive, but grusome!
Most smelly
Hippos, Serengeti and Lake Manyara
We had two opportunities to see a pool full of hippos: a very touristy 'view point' in Lake Manyara, and a much more natural view in the Serengeti where we stood on a rock above a river and covered our noses as we watched over 100 hippos sleeping, mating, grunting and generally stinking! I can't stress it enough - they really really smell!! I loved seeing them - they've always been something I associate with Africa and 'adventure' (probably from the stories Papa told me about his expidition days in the Bangweulu Swamps) so I had to pinch myself. I have moments like that when I can't believe I'm actually here!
Most rare
Leopards, Serengeti and Rhino, Ngorogoro Crater
Charles was preparing us not to see any leopards, as we'd already seen 3 out of the Big Five and you have to be very lucky to spot any. However, we saw a group of jeeps under a tree so screeched to a halt, looked up, and there were two leopards dozing in the tree above our head! At one point the female woke up, growled at the male, paced the branch, and settled back down with all four paws and tail dangling. Very exciting.
On our last day, the only animal we hadn't seen was the Black Rhino (which are cunningly actually white...). There are only 28 in the Ngorogor Crater, so we didn't really expect to see any. Eagle-eyed Charles, however, spotted what looked like a rock to us. As we tried to identify which of the nearby rocks it was, it stirred, got up and posed very thoughtfully for us!
Most funny
Monkeys, Ngorogoro Crater
We stopped for a loo break in a car park in the trees at the NC, that was littered with 'cheeky monkeys'... One jumped off the roof of the loo block onto James' feet, one came in our jeep window then left when we said "erm, Charles, there appears to be a monkey in the car", but the funniest incident by far was yet to come. One climbed in the roof of the other jeep, with most of the volunteers still in it, and erm, 'did it's business' in Katy's seat! Katy brought hair straighteners. It was very funny.
Briefly, our accomodation was the most luxurious I've ever stayed in and the buffet's were the highlights of our stays...we fell on it like hyenas - might as well make the most of it!
Wow, I've written such a lot and feel like I've barely started! I'm so glad I went. Thank you to Mum and Dad, it is my birthday and Christmas presents for years to come - and what a present...
Lxxx
Saturday, 11 April 2009
Safari cont...
I had not expected to see quite as many animals as we did because it is out of season (hence the vastly upgraded accommodation). As it was, there were moments when you had four different species in your camera lense. It was not just the animals, however, that impressed me most - the landscape was simply stunning.
Many thousands of years ago there was a mountain the size of Kilimanjaro. When the tectonic plates groaned apart creating the Great Rift Valley, the mountain vanished off the face of the Earth, becoming part of the magma under our feet. There are in fact three craters in the Ngorogoro Conservation Area, but this calmera is the most stunning. It is named, incidentally, onomatopoeically from the sounds of the Maasai's cowbells. They are the only tribe permitted to live in this area as their cow-orientated culture poses no risk to the other species.
'Serengeti' is a Maasai word for 'endless plain'. You drive through miles and miles of open plain, with the eyeline broken up sporadically by kopjes - rocky outcrops - and acacia trees. The rainy season should have began in earnest in March, but we are only beginnin to get the odd heavy downfall. It is startling proof of the existence of global warming. Many crops have failed this year bringing a host of associated problems, and the migration pattern is in turmoil. The huge Wilderbeest migration should take place in May, but a slow and steady stream are already crossing the Serengeti to the Maasai Mara. There seem sot be a very exact rout they follow - incredible considering the size of the landscape.
Many thousands of years ago there was a mountain the size of Kilimanjaro. When the tectonic plates groaned apart creating the Great Rift Valley, the mountain vanished off the face of the Earth, becoming part of the magma under our feet. There are in fact three craters in the Ngorogoro Conservation Area, but this calmera is the most stunning. It is named, incidentally, onomatopoeically from the sounds of the Maasai's cowbells. They are the only tribe permitted to live in this area as their cow-orientated culture poses no risk to the other species.
'Serengeti' is a Maasai word for 'endless plain'. You drive through miles and miles of open plain, with the eyeline broken up sporadically by kopjes - rocky outcrops - and acacia trees. The rainy season should have began in earnest in March, but we are only beginnin to get the odd heavy downfall. It is startling proof of the existence of global warming. Many crops have failed this year bringing a host of associated problems, and the migration pattern is in turmoil. The huge Wilderbeest migration should take place in May, but a slow and steady stream are already crossing the Serengeti to the Maasai Mara. There seem sot be a very exact rout they follow - incredible considering the size of the landscape.
Tuesday, 7 April 2009
Safari
Writing about being on Safari is harder than you might think. I can tell you about the facts - the places we visited and the animals we saw - but there is no way to describe how it feels to screech to a halt because there are two leopards in the tree above your head, or sunrise over the Serengeti. I will, however, do my best!
We were taken to Lake Manyara, the Serengeti and the Ngorogoro Crater by our good-humoured, highly knowledgable, eagle-eyed driver Charles in four busy days. We saw all of the Big Five (a rarity) plus scores of other species.
I was glad we did Lake Manyara first, because it was a good ease-in for the truly spectaculr things to come. It was far more controlled than the other two Parks, with signposts, car park by a fenced hippo pool etc. Nevertheless, it was still spectacular with it's mixture of dense forest and lake shore. Our first glimpse of elephants was so exciting, in fact, the novelty never wore off! We saw 3 out of the 5, but I will talk of 'animal experiences' from other days to save repetition!
Run out of time. Tbc...
We were taken to Lake Manyara, the Serengeti and the Ngorogoro Crater by our good-humoured, highly knowledgable, eagle-eyed driver Charles in four busy days. We saw all of the Big Five (a rarity) plus scores of other species.
I was glad we did Lake Manyara first, because it was a good ease-in for the truly spectaculr things to come. It was far more controlled than the other two Parks, with signposts, car park by a fenced hippo pool etc. Nevertheless, it was still spectacular with it's mixture of dense forest and lake shore. Our first glimpse of elephants was so exciting, in fact, the novelty never wore off! We saw 3 out of the 5, but I will talk of 'animal experiences' from other days to save repetition!
Run out of time. Tbc...
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