Saturday, 7 March 2009

cont...

We spent the majority of our time in Nungwi, 'traveler's central', although it was not at all what I had imagined - no hint of hideous concrete hotels and 'the Brit abroad'. Instead, we discovered miles of sand as white and fine as silk with a few beech side bars and restaurants under the traditional banana-leaf roofs. A little further along were some unobtrusive hotels and more upmarket restaurants that we were able to indulge in when the budget allowed.
If ever anyone comes to Zanz (I would recommend taking any opportunity!) visit Langi Langi. The absolutely charming manager did his hotelier training in London, but felt pulled back to his home. He certainly knew how to create customer loyalty: free ice-cream, very generous discounts because we are Tanz residents and teachers, fishing for squid then serving it to us as a yummy free dish in the evening. And the food, wow. Exquisite by any British upmarket restaurant's standards.

I'm going to have to be selective about what I write about, otherwise this post will turn into a novel...

'Can't believe it' moment #1
Sipping a fresh pina colada watching the silhouetted dhows (traditional sailing boats) bobbing around in the gold-streaked water as the sun went down.

'Can't believe it' moment #2
Being sat in the sand at dusk with a rasta guitarist being played everything from self-composed reggae to Bob Marley to Oasis. I ate the best lichee (?sp) of my life (yes, I have had it before...) and harmonised with him.

'Cant believe it' moment #3
Snorkeling.
After going through my budget with a fine toothcomb, I allowed myself the luxery of $20 to go snorkeling. I am so glad I did, I will look back at it for the rest of my life, and look at it as a yardstick for happiness. A dhow took a group of around 30 to coral off the shore of the epitome of a paradise island, where we swam with over 100 varieties of fish over vivid coral of all shapes and sizes. We saw some dolphins playing nearer the mainland, but it was too far for us to reach them.
When we had all slopped back into the boat, we were taken to an all-but deserted stretch of beech. We waded through the surf to where we had the most exquisite tuna with ground garlic and ginger, and rice. I met so many interesting people, including 4 medical staff from an aid station in the Sudan (on R&R) and an engineer/artist who was behind the 'growing' stage at the Winter Olympics at Salt Lake City. He showed us pictures on his iphone and listened politely as I asked for any advice for my brother's engineering ambitions. We eventually drifted back to Nungwi and spent the night at the eccentric hippy/rasta bar where you sit in boats of hammocks and politely decline the sheisha (local weed).

It was actually quite nice coming back to Arusha - made me realise how much I see it as my home now. Having said that, the journey was pretty grim, but I prefer to call it 'adventurous'! Very early ferry (2hrs of sea-sickness), apparently missing our choice of coach, having no option but to take the dodgy bus that had people jumping on and off while moving for a good 10 miles, 11 hours sat on it with one brief stop, breaking down three times in the back-end-of-beyond, and having to pay double the fee to everyone else - the curse of the mzungu!
It was, however, an excellent way to see just how varied Tanzania's landscape is and have time to ponder over my very fortunate life. I'm glad we had that journey because it means I can get the tremendously strong desire to strangle the conning protagonists from Saibaba well out the way before Jon comes out! Hopefully I will be as chillaxed as a cucumber and take the 'meh, this is Africa' approach for our 2months traveling.

I have returned home full of resolve and energy. I have lots more ideas (like compiling a number of interviews with pupils and staff on my ipod), and my lenten resolution is to learn much more Swahili. Roll on the next 6 weeks (but not too fast please, I want to savour every moment)!

Tutaonana badaye (see you later)
Lxxx

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