I suppose it is a good sign that I haven't written for so long - I'm in a supreme state of chilled-out-ness!!
Jon and I are still in Nkhata Bay, having found a fantastic backpackers' lodge with dents in the sofa that have our names on them... Every time we thought about leaving there has been some reason not to, but we will definitely be going on Wednesday with the owners who are going to Lilongwe.
Last week were the Malawian elections, which engulfed the whole town. Hearing that the result had been challenged and that riots are common place, we decided to lay low for a for days. It's good to see people so fired up by politics - it's been the centre of conversation for weeks - until you find out that one of the candidates was stood at the poling station bribing people to change their votes! It doesn't sound that different to the first elections my grandfather helped organise (in Zomba) in the 1960s where the candidate went 'unopposed' - pole sana Papa...
Let me bring you up to date a bit.
Taking the advice of The Lonely Planet and the Tourist Information office at Mbeya, we took the MV Songea from 'Itungi Port' to Mbamba Bay. The port was, in fact, not at Itungi but at the end of a dirt track through a small village; we would never have found it if it wasn't for the cheeky taxi driver. It was fantastic! The major port consisted of: 1 rusty portacabin (booking office), 1 reed hut (departure lounge and cafe), 1 rickety jetty and 2 old, slightly rusty, ferries.
Thankfully we had one of the 6 cabins on the top deck; if we had not splashed out we would have been herded like cattle into the oven-like hold with the other 100 or so passengers. So we rather guiltily enjoyed out 21 hour trip down the most stunning lake. We skirted the Livingstonian Mountains (Tanzania side) for the majority of the journey, stopping at tiny beaches to deliver a crate of coca cola or sack of grain. They are hugely craggy mountains that were wrenched in two (part of the Great Rift Valley). Consequently, they look like beautifully baked bread that has been torn apart.
Mbamba Bay seemed a bit bemused at our arrival - "tourists? Really? I remember those..." It certainly wasn't what we were expecting (all hopes of an ATM quickly vanished) but was one of those utterly fantastic jewels you stumble on by accident.
To be continued...
Monday 25 May 2009
Wednesday 6 May 2009
Part 2 of the African adventure!
Wednesday 6th May 2009
Part 2 of the African adventure is well and truly underway: Jon and I are leaving Mbeya (where we have been since Saturday) early tomorrow, on the first stage of rather zig-zag ferry travel on Lake Malawi, from Itungi Port to Mbamba Bay on the eastern shore, Tanzanian side.
It’s been a busy time since I last wrote, not leaving much time for blog updates, ‘pole sana’. Before my journey to Dar [es Salaam], I had plenty to do with admin and posting newly tailored clothes back to the family, etc. What I hadn’t planned on was having to spend much of my time in the police station and unravelling the mess, with my magnificent mother’s help, that a stolen wallet and iPod entails. Although it was very frustrating and disappointing (I think some of the kids took my iPod) it didn’t spoil my last days in Arusha.
My ‘social diary’ was full to bursting – Mkooosi, Mashoto and Mkala did their best to keep me full of chi and I took a few meals with various staff members too.
I got particularly close to Mama Mkala, who I think relished the opportunity of mothering a surrogate daughter for a while. It was fantastic – I really felt like part of the family, eating, sleeping, slobbing, joking and plucking chickens! Mkala had offered for me to spend the whole time there, so out of politeness I stayed a night in their two-roomed house, loved it, so came back for more! After my wallet was stolen I just wanted a friend and a hug, so felt more than comfortable in inviting myself round and joining in the chores (I helped pluck, gut and roast a chicken that night – fantastic!) Mkala always gets close to volunteers but she said she had enjoyed my company the most. She was so sweet!
Anyway, moving forwards to the emotional reunion with my lovely Jon.
Everything went according to plan in my ‘book of independent travelling’ and on a swelteringly hot day (almost Zanzibar temperatures) I planted myself directly opposite the [airport] arrivals gate, craning my neck to see Jon come through immigration. After over an hour and a faulty arrivals board, I left my spot to find a drink, and in that time Jon arrived. WELL! It didn’t matter though; at that point I was only feet away so our Hollywood-style reunion still happened (without having to send the strings home...) it was every bit as good as the three months of anticipation.
We decided to push the boat out and stay two nights at the charming and, crucially, air conditioned Swiss-gardened hotel. Nice room, nice food, nice shower. It seemed to be a hot spot for businessmen and at the delicious buffet suppers we were treated to an array of delightfully dull characters, some more amiable than others...!
As the heat, cost and hustle and bustle of Dar was too much to bear, we left a.s.a.p. by coach to Mbeya in the south, near the Malawian and Zambian borders. Good decision. It’s a lovely little town cradled in the lush mountains where everything is within walking distance and dirt cheap. I’ve been staying in a great guest house where you get a big room and bathroom for about £3 each a night and good honest Tanzanian food for about £1.50!
Tomorrow we are getting a bus then a 4x4 to Itungi Port, where our ferry for Mbamba Bay departs (a 21-hour [overnight] journey – my idea of blissful travel!) As Mbamba Bay looks a pretty chilled out sort of a place, we plan on spending some time there before heading for the more touristy but picturesque Nkata Bay on the Malawian side. That’s the plan. No doubt Travellers’ Providence will have a few ideas of its own for us along the way!
We’ll keep you posted whenever we can use the Internet.
TTFN
L&J
xxx
Monday 20 April 2009
Last Day – Friday 17 April
On Friday we bid an emotional farewell to Sekei Primary School (although I will be staying in the house for 10 more days). Today Amy and Cat are flying home and Pippa is moving to Enaboishu Secondary School.
As my last lesson I did an award ceremony – ten pupils got a certificate and a prize (pencil case or pen) for effort, achievement, most helpful, best handwriting and most funny. I also bought three huge bags of sweets and gave each in the class a bundle with a name tag. They loved it; some of them looked so proud that I thought their grins would split their faces apart! Afterwards we played hangman, and they wrote things like “We love you, Madam Lucie” and “Goodbye Madam Lucie, God bless.” That made me cry. Alot! Faraja came up and wiped the tears off my face and all 70 kids mobbed me with hugs and kisses. I love my pupils – I’m really going to miss them.
Mr Hockey ushered us into his office to say thank you for what we had done, and then it was time to go to the staffroom. Over the sainted cup of chai, Mr Mkoosi stood up and gave a very moving speech that jerked the tears for a second time. We were then presented with kitenges (huge sheets of fabric used for clothes) which were tied around us in the Masai style – a traditional Tanzanian ceremony. All of us were crying rivers at this point, along with some of the staff!
I can’t believe how quickly the end of teaching has come round. It hasn’t at all been an easy ride – there have been many times when I felt I was banging my head against a brick wall and wishing I was anywhere but here. They have, however, been vastly outweighed by the satisfaction of knowing I myself have taught the children something; seeing them excited by a lesson; winking at them and them high-fiving me back; sharing a joke (“kichizi kama ndizi” – you crazy banana!); their excitement at getting their new display board; and the letters, notes and drawings handed to me, all say “we love you”.
This isn’t the final, final goodbye though. I’ve got ten days living in the house by myself before going to Dah to meet Jon (HURRAY!!!) so will still have hoards of kids at the door and will go to the staffroom for chai if I’m around at break time. I’ll have plenty to do with collecting clothes, sending parcels home, packing, cleaning the house, converting money, booking my bus ticket, cooking for teachers, and hopefully a few social calls too.
Thank you to everyone who has taken such an interest in what I have been doing, and for the donations towards desks, display board and books. It genuinely has been a great support knowing there are people at home thinking about me, and giving me the encouragement to do more pro-active things such as painting the school.
I will continue to update my blog with thoughts and reflections about my time here, as and when, and of course some tales from travelling. But as for updates about teaching: “T-t-that’s all folks!”
L
xxx
As my last lesson I did an award ceremony – ten pupils got a certificate and a prize (pencil case or pen) for effort, achievement, most helpful, best handwriting and most funny. I also bought three huge bags of sweets and gave each in the class a bundle with a name tag. They loved it; some of them looked so proud that I thought their grins would split their faces apart! Afterwards we played hangman, and they wrote things like “We love you, Madam Lucie” and “Goodbye Madam Lucie, God bless.” That made me cry. Alot! Faraja came up and wiped the tears off my face and all 70 kids mobbed me with hugs and kisses. I love my pupils – I’m really going to miss them.
Mr Hockey ushered us into his office to say thank you for what we had done, and then it was time to go to the staffroom. Over the sainted cup of chai, Mr Mkoosi stood up and gave a very moving speech that jerked the tears for a second time. We were then presented with kitenges (huge sheets of fabric used for clothes) which were tied around us in the Masai style – a traditional Tanzanian ceremony. All of us were crying rivers at this point, along with some of the staff!
I can’t believe how quickly the end of teaching has come round. It hasn’t at all been an easy ride – there have been many times when I felt I was banging my head against a brick wall and wishing I was anywhere but here. They have, however, been vastly outweighed by the satisfaction of knowing I myself have taught the children something; seeing them excited by a lesson; winking at them and them high-fiving me back; sharing a joke (“kichizi kama ndizi” – you crazy banana!); their excitement at getting their new display board; and the letters, notes and drawings handed to me, all say “we love you”.
This isn’t the final, final goodbye though. I’ve got ten days living in the house by myself before going to Dah to meet Jon (HURRAY!!!) so will still have hoards of kids at the door and will go to the staffroom for chai if I’m around at break time. I’ll have plenty to do with collecting clothes, sending parcels home, packing, cleaning the house, converting money, booking my bus ticket, cooking for teachers, and hopefully a few social calls too.
Thank you to everyone who has taken such an interest in what I have been doing, and for the donations towards desks, display board and books. It genuinely has been a great support knowing there are people at home thinking about me, and giving me the encouragement to do more pro-active things such as painting the school.
I will continue to update my blog with thoughts and reflections about my time here, as and when, and of course some tales from travelling. But as for updates about teaching: “T-t-that’s all folks!”
L
xxx
Friday 17 April 2009
Easter Day
A very (belated) happy Easter to everyone!
This was an Easter I will never forget - I spent it at an African Orphanage.
The Bourka group of volunteers go regularly to an orphanage just outside Ngaramtoni, North of Arusha, so they invited us along. We went to their church service which was bursting at the seams with singing and dancing, helped hand out three huge bags of clothes recently donated, and ate ugali with the founder, Jane.
Jane, an inspirational childless woman, felt she had three visions from God in dreams five years ago guiding her to look after the local children. She now takes care of 5 kids as her own and runs a drop-in style orphanage serving 250. Not all of the children have lost both parents - most live with grandparents or surviving parent and use the orphanage as an escape, support and place to simply have fun. Everything Jane does is rooted in her incredibly strong born-again belief in God: "people do not understand why I do this - they think it is like a business - but it is all the will of the Lord. There may be future Bishops here, so I must take care of them".
Having said that the Comic Relief image is just that, an image, I may have to admit to some exceptions. Granted, I was only there for a few hours but the cliche that the less you have the happier you are really appeared to be true. These children just want love, so unlike some of the Sekei kids, when they want a hug or to be your friend they do not expect anything in return. During the service a little girl came and sat on my lap, and fell asleep cradled in my arms - one of those deeply touching moments that stay with you for a long time! They were so excited to get the new clothes that were donated by a local Pastor - a new outfit is always something to strut around in wherever you are!
There is one mama who makes the lunchtime ugali in the biggest pot I've ever seen. The orphanage obviously gets a fair bit of aid, as they have a brilliant water pump in the yard - the sort you send as Oxfam Xmas cards. I'm pleased to report they are well worth buying, they've made a big difference. We all squeezed into the office to have lunch with Jane and her husband, which was such fun. They've lots of amusing stories (such as Jane having a spell cast on her by a witch doctor so she would marry her Maasai husband!!) and I'm not sure you could have crammed in any more of Jane's poignant speeches!
I'm so glad I went along - it was such a memorable and insightful day, and took the edge off missing my friends and family!
Lxxx
This was an Easter I will never forget - I spent it at an African Orphanage.
The Bourka group of volunteers go regularly to an orphanage just outside Ngaramtoni, North of Arusha, so they invited us along. We went to their church service which was bursting at the seams with singing and dancing, helped hand out three huge bags of clothes recently donated, and ate ugali with the founder, Jane.
Jane, an inspirational childless woman, felt she had three visions from God in dreams five years ago guiding her to look after the local children. She now takes care of 5 kids as her own and runs a drop-in style orphanage serving 250. Not all of the children have lost both parents - most live with grandparents or surviving parent and use the orphanage as an escape, support and place to simply have fun. Everything Jane does is rooted in her incredibly strong born-again belief in God: "people do not understand why I do this - they think it is like a business - but it is all the will of the Lord. There may be future Bishops here, so I must take care of them".
Having said that the Comic Relief image is just that, an image, I may have to admit to some exceptions. Granted, I was only there for a few hours but the cliche that the less you have the happier you are really appeared to be true. These children just want love, so unlike some of the Sekei kids, when they want a hug or to be your friend they do not expect anything in return. During the service a little girl came and sat on my lap, and fell asleep cradled in my arms - one of those deeply touching moments that stay with you for a long time! They were so excited to get the new clothes that were donated by a local Pastor - a new outfit is always something to strut around in wherever you are!
There is one mama who makes the lunchtime ugali in the biggest pot I've ever seen. The orphanage obviously gets a fair bit of aid, as they have a brilliant water pump in the yard - the sort you send as Oxfam Xmas cards. I'm pleased to report they are well worth buying, they've made a big difference. We all squeezed into the office to have lunch with Jane and her husband, which was such fun. They've lots of amusing stories (such as Jane having a spell cast on her by a witch doctor so she would marry her Maasai husband!!) and I'm not sure you could have crammed in any more of Jane's poignant speeches!
I'm so glad I went along - it was such a memorable and insightful day, and took the edge off missing my friends and family!
Lxxx
Wednesday 15 April 2009
Safari (almost there folks!)
Right, time to talk about the animals.
I imagined David Attenborough at every turn, it was like stepping into an episode of Planet Earth! Name a safari animal and we will have seen it: lions, elephants, leopards, water buffalo, rhino, giraffes, zebras, cheetahs, impala, hyenas, hippos, ostriches, flamingos, buffalo, wildebeest, gazelles, lizards, monkeys, baboons, eagles, secretary birds (love the name) and many many others.
Zebras, impala and wildebeests roamed all three parks like exotic versions of New Forest ponies, deer and cattle. The first day we wanted to get every zebra on camera, but by the end it was more like "oh, there's a zebra...meh...!" There are still so many sights that I cannot possibly imagine getting blaze about. As I can't write about every single 'animal encounter', I will present the prizes to different categories (drum roll).
Most exhilirating
Cheetahs, Serengeti
After an hour of not seeing much, Charles got a tip-off from a fellow driver that sent him screeching off in the opposite direction to a dry lake bed. We arrived with pink cheeks and hair all over our faces not knowing what we were going to see, and edged in furtively (strictly speaking we weren't allowed to be there, but Charles had a decent sense of adventure...). Under a tree were two beautiful cheetahs sleeping. We got within 3 feet of them and could see every little detail. After a few quick snaps we hurridly left the area and continued on our way. Did you know Cheetah's aren't true cats because their claws don't retract?
Most impressive
Elephant, Ngorogoro Crater
We had several sightings of elephants through the trees, but one in particular stuck in my mind. As we were driving through the forest on the edge of the NC we heard a rustle, looked round, and saw the most beautiful, impressive, enormous but graceful animal I've seen. It was a bull elephant, and was munching away about 10ft from the jeep. I know their ears are big, but I had not appreciated quite how enormous they are until he flapped them. They are about 2/3 the size of the whole elephant! Did you know Most elephants' tusks are different lengths. This is because they are the equivalent of right and left handed - they use one side of their head more when rootling for food, so one tusk gets worn down quicker than the other.
Most 'Lion King'
Lion, Serengeti
In the distance we saw a huge male sitting like a sphinx on the edge of a kopje (rock), surveying the 'endless plain'. We did feel the need to sing the Disney soundtrack, I'm afraid...
Lion encounter 2 We saw quite a few lions asleep, but in the Ngorogoro Crater we were treated to a male leaving his pack of three sleeping females to cross the road right in front of us, pose in the sunlight, and flirt with two more females. They are so beautiful, it's hard to imagine them tearing animals to shreads (but I'm willing to believe it!)
Most scary
Hyenas, Serengeti
They were the first animals we saw in the Serengeti (apart from zebras), and actually very impressive. There was a small pack of them wandering over to some carrion on the side of the road. They really are hideous looking creatures. Their front legs are far longer than their back, so they walk with a strange gait (like a gorilla). Their faces are pretty grizzly and their fur is not what I call groomed. All in all, impressive, but grusome!
Most smelly
Hippos, Serengeti and Lake Manyara
We had two opportunities to see a pool full of hippos: a very touristy 'view point' in Lake Manyara, and a much more natural view in the Serengeti where we stood on a rock above a river and covered our noses as we watched over 100 hippos sleeping, mating, grunting and generally stinking! I can't stress it enough - they really really smell!! I loved seeing them - they've always been something I associate with Africa and 'adventure' (probably from the stories Papa told me about his expidition days in the Bangweulu Swamps) so I had to pinch myself. I have moments like that when I can't believe I'm actually here!
Most rare
Leopards, Serengeti and Rhino, Ngorogoro Crater
Charles was preparing us not to see any leopards, as we'd already seen 3 out of the Big Five and you have to be very lucky to spot any. However, we saw a group of jeeps under a tree so screeched to a halt, looked up, and there were two leopards dozing in the tree above our head! At one point the female woke up, growled at the male, paced the branch, and settled back down with all four paws and tail dangling. Very exciting.
On our last day, the only animal we hadn't seen was the Black Rhino (which are cunningly actually white...). There are only 28 in the Ngorogor Crater, so we didn't really expect to see any. Eagle-eyed Charles, however, spotted what looked like a rock to us. As we tried to identify which of the nearby rocks it was, it stirred, got up and posed very thoughtfully for us!
Most funny
Monkeys, Ngorogoro Crater
We stopped for a loo break in a car park in the trees at the NC, that was littered with 'cheeky monkeys'... One jumped off the roof of the loo block onto James' feet, one came in our jeep window then left when we said "erm, Charles, there appears to be a monkey in the car", but the funniest incident by far was yet to come. One climbed in the roof of the other jeep, with most of the volunteers still in it, and erm, 'did it's business' in Katy's seat! Katy brought hair straighteners. It was very funny.
Briefly, our accomodation was the most luxurious I've ever stayed in and the buffet's were the highlights of our stays...we fell on it like hyenas - might as well make the most of it!
Wow, I've written such a lot and feel like I've barely started! I'm so glad I went. Thank you to Mum and Dad, it is my birthday and Christmas presents for years to come - and what a present...
Lxxx
I imagined David Attenborough at every turn, it was like stepping into an episode of Planet Earth! Name a safari animal and we will have seen it: lions, elephants, leopards, water buffalo, rhino, giraffes, zebras, cheetahs, impala, hyenas, hippos, ostriches, flamingos, buffalo, wildebeest, gazelles, lizards, monkeys, baboons, eagles, secretary birds (love the name) and many many others.
Zebras, impala and wildebeests roamed all three parks like exotic versions of New Forest ponies, deer and cattle. The first day we wanted to get every zebra on camera, but by the end it was more like "oh, there's a zebra...meh...!" There are still so many sights that I cannot possibly imagine getting blaze about. As I can't write about every single 'animal encounter', I will present the prizes to different categories (drum roll).
Most exhilirating
Cheetahs, Serengeti
After an hour of not seeing much, Charles got a tip-off from a fellow driver that sent him screeching off in the opposite direction to a dry lake bed. We arrived with pink cheeks and hair all over our faces not knowing what we were going to see, and edged in furtively (strictly speaking we weren't allowed to be there, but Charles had a decent sense of adventure...). Under a tree were two beautiful cheetahs sleeping. We got within 3 feet of them and could see every little detail. After a few quick snaps we hurridly left the area and continued on our way. Did you know Cheetah's aren't true cats because their claws don't retract?
Most impressive
Elephant, Ngorogoro Crater
We had several sightings of elephants through the trees, but one in particular stuck in my mind. As we were driving through the forest on the edge of the NC we heard a rustle, looked round, and saw the most beautiful, impressive, enormous but graceful animal I've seen. It was a bull elephant, and was munching away about 10ft from the jeep. I know their ears are big, but I had not appreciated quite how enormous they are until he flapped them. They are about 2/3 the size of the whole elephant! Did you know Most elephants' tusks are different lengths. This is because they are the equivalent of right and left handed - they use one side of their head more when rootling for food, so one tusk gets worn down quicker than the other.
Most 'Lion King'
Lion, Serengeti
In the distance we saw a huge male sitting like a sphinx on the edge of a kopje (rock), surveying the 'endless plain'. We did feel the need to sing the Disney soundtrack, I'm afraid...
Lion encounter 2 We saw quite a few lions asleep, but in the Ngorogoro Crater we were treated to a male leaving his pack of three sleeping females to cross the road right in front of us, pose in the sunlight, and flirt with two more females. They are so beautiful, it's hard to imagine them tearing animals to shreads (but I'm willing to believe it!)
Most scary
Hyenas, Serengeti
They were the first animals we saw in the Serengeti (apart from zebras), and actually very impressive. There was a small pack of them wandering over to some carrion on the side of the road. They really are hideous looking creatures. Their front legs are far longer than their back, so they walk with a strange gait (like a gorilla). Their faces are pretty grizzly and their fur is not what I call groomed. All in all, impressive, but grusome!
Most smelly
Hippos, Serengeti and Lake Manyara
We had two opportunities to see a pool full of hippos: a very touristy 'view point' in Lake Manyara, and a much more natural view in the Serengeti where we stood on a rock above a river and covered our noses as we watched over 100 hippos sleeping, mating, grunting and generally stinking! I can't stress it enough - they really really smell!! I loved seeing them - they've always been something I associate with Africa and 'adventure' (probably from the stories Papa told me about his expidition days in the Bangweulu Swamps) so I had to pinch myself. I have moments like that when I can't believe I'm actually here!
Most rare
Leopards, Serengeti and Rhino, Ngorogoro Crater
Charles was preparing us not to see any leopards, as we'd already seen 3 out of the Big Five and you have to be very lucky to spot any. However, we saw a group of jeeps under a tree so screeched to a halt, looked up, and there were two leopards dozing in the tree above our head! At one point the female woke up, growled at the male, paced the branch, and settled back down with all four paws and tail dangling. Very exciting.
On our last day, the only animal we hadn't seen was the Black Rhino (which are cunningly actually white...). There are only 28 in the Ngorogor Crater, so we didn't really expect to see any. Eagle-eyed Charles, however, spotted what looked like a rock to us. As we tried to identify which of the nearby rocks it was, it stirred, got up and posed very thoughtfully for us!
Most funny
Monkeys, Ngorogoro Crater
We stopped for a loo break in a car park in the trees at the NC, that was littered with 'cheeky monkeys'... One jumped off the roof of the loo block onto James' feet, one came in our jeep window then left when we said "erm, Charles, there appears to be a monkey in the car", but the funniest incident by far was yet to come. One climbed in the roof of the other jeep, with most of the volunteers still in it, and erm, 'did it's business' in Katy's seat! Katy brought hair straighteners. It was very funny.
Briefly, our accomodation was the most luxurious I've ever stayed in and the buffet's were the highlights of our stays...we fell on it like hyenas - might as well make the most of it!
Wow, I've written such a lot and feel like I've barely started! I'm so glad I went. Thank you to Mum and Dad, it is my birthday and Christmas presents for years to come - and what a present...
Lxxx
Saturday 11 April 2009
Safari cont...
I had not expected to see quite as many animals as we did because it is out of season (hence the vastly upgraded accommodation). As it was, there were moments when you had four different species in your camera lense. It was not just the animals, however, that impressed me most - the landscape was simply stunning.
Many thousands of years ago there was a mountain the size of Kilimanjaro. When the tectonic plates groaned apart creating the Great Rift Valley, the mountain vanished off the face of the Earth, becoming part of the magma under our feet. There are in fact three craters in the Ngorogoro Conservation Area, but this calmera is the most stunning. It is named, incidentally, onomatopoeically from the sounds of the Maasai's cowbells. They are the only tribe permitted to live in this area as their cow-orientated culture poses no risk to the other species.
'Serengeti' is a Maasai word for 'endless plain'. You drive through miles and miles of open plain, with the eyeline broken up sporadically by kopjes - rocky outcrops - and acacia trees. The rainy season should have began in earnest in March, but we are only beginnin to get the odd heavy downfall. It is startling proof of the existence of global warming. Many crops have failed this year bringing a host of associated problems, and the migration pattern is in turmoil. The huge Wilderbeest migration should take place in May, but a slow and steady stream are already crossing the Serengeti to the Maasai Mara. There seem sot be a very exact rout they follow - incredible considering the size of the landscape.
Many thousands of years ago there was a mountain the size of Kilimanjaro. When the tectonic plates groaned apart creating the Great Rift Valley, the mountain vanished off the face of the Earth, becoming part of the magma under our feet. There are in fact three craters in the Ngorogoro Conservation Area, but this calmera is the most stunning. It is named, incidentally, onomatopoeically from the sounds of the Maasai's cowbells. They are the only tribe permitted to live in this area as their cow-orientated culture poses no risk to the other species.
'Serengeti' is a Maasai word for 'endless plain'. You drive through miles and miles of open plain, with the eyeline broken up sporadically by kopjes - rocky outcrops - and acacia trees. The rainy season should have began in earnest in March, but we are only beginnin to get the odd heavy downfall. It is startling proof of the existence of global warming. Many crops have failed this year bringing a host of associated problems, and the migration pattern is in turmoil. The huge Wilderbeest migration should take place in May, but a slow and steady stream are already crossing the Serengeti to the Maasai Mara. There seem sot be a very exact rout they follow - incredible considering the size of the landscape.
Tuesday 7 April 2009
Safari
Writing about being on Safari is harder than you might think. I can tell you about the facts - the places we visited and the animals we saw - but there is no way to describe how it feels to screech to a halt because there are two leopards in the tree above your head, or sunrise over the Serengeti. I will, however, do my best!
We were taken to Lake Manyara, the Serengeti and the Ngorogoro Crater by our good-humoured, highly knowledgable, eagle-eyed driver Charles in four busy days. We saw all of the Big Five (a rarity) plus scores of other species.
I was glad we did Lake Manyara first, because it was a good ease-in for the truly spectaculr things to come. It was far more controlled than the other two Parks, with signposts, car park by a fenced hippo pool etc. Nevertheless, it was still spectacular with it's mixture of dense forest and lake shore. Our first glimpse of elephants was so exciting, in fact, the novelty never wore off! We saw 3 out of the 5, but I will talk of 'animal experiences' from other days to save repetition!
Run out of time. Tbc...
We were taken to Lake Manyara, the Serengeti and the Ngorogoro Crater by our good-humoured, highly knowledgable, eagle-eyed driver Charles in four busy days. We saw all of the Big Five (a rarity) plus scores of other species.
I was glad we did Lake Manyara first, because it was a good ease-in for the truly spectaculr things to come. It was far more controlled than the other two Parks, with signposts, car park by a fenced hippo pool etc. Nevertheless, it was still spectacular with it's mixture of dense forest and lake shore. Our first glimpse of elephants was so exciting, in fact, the novelty never wore off! We saw 3 out of the 5, but I will talk of 'animal experiences' from other days to save repetition!
Run out of time. Tbc...
Tuesday 31 March 2009
Volcanoes, markets and blue paint...
Just a brief update before heading off on safari early tomorrow morning.
As usual, I've had another very full and busy week. It was lovely to get Amy back after her week away with her parents. As it was her birthday last week, I baked her a banana cake which was presented to her after a meal out with the whole group.
Two main highlights this week: our daytrip on Thursday and work on the classrooms.
Mr Mashoto, our neighbour, began his teaching career in a Maasai school in the middle of nowhere. As he returns frequently, I asked if we might be able to come along too at some point. He and his friend (I feel dreadful, I can't remember his name, and he was so lovely!) organised a full day out for us, including a welcoming ceremony and tribal dance BUT we never got to the school...
We went by several Dalla Dallas, effectively travelling to the other side of Mount Meru. Part one of our day-trip was stopping at the foot of a hill with no explanation. "Today we climb" - ok then! Although it was not very tall, it turned out to be a dormant volcano called Kilimamoto. We puffed our way up and were greeted by the most enormous crater, which we scampered round. Mashoto looked liked a mountain goat, bizarrely dressed in his smart work clothes!
The plan was to wait at the bottom of the road for the next Dalla Dalla to take us to the Maasai village. We waited...and waited...and waited... After two hours, somebody came past and told us what was going on: law cannot extend into the rural parts of Africa, and so consequently no notice is taken of regulations. Dalla Dalla owners keep their vehicles on the road far beyond the point that is safe, and realised that they could charge whatever they wanted. Not so. Enraged Maasai would pull out their knives and sticks in objection to the extortionate fare, and when that didn't work, they came up with a new solution - a road block! Between us and the village, every Dalla Dalla was being stopped and passengers demanded to get off and say how much they had paid. If it was too much, they would have to wait by the side of the road until some kind soul offered them a lift, or walk all the way back to Ngaramtony (the nearest town). We had no choice but to do the same. I felt so sorry for the kids who'd prepared an elaborate welcome for us - perhaps we'll be able to go back.
The walk back to Ngaramtony was 5km on a dusty, rubbly road under construction in the blazing sun. Thankfully I had my 'lighter-than-air' walking boots that sped me on my way. Thursdays are market days, and so we were treated to be able to walk through the town that was entirely given over to people selling their goods. It was fantastic. There were sacks of grain, flower, tea leaves next to blankets with carrots piled in towers, next to a heap of pastic flip flops (the standard African footwear) and kangas (fabric ready sized to make clothing). As you walked through the little streets, you passed through smell after smell (tea leaves, spices, etc). It was well worth the walk! We got a legitimate Dalla Dalla home and went to our local bar for a thank you drink. A very memorable day.
We finished painting the outside of the classrooms yesterday (consequently I am drenched in paint that will only come off with kerosene!). It took roughly a day and a half to paint 3 walls 3/4 of the way up, as requested. Mr Mkosi was pretty insistent that it should be plain light blue, and as it is his school, we relinquished our grand artistic plans. It does, however, look very attractive and smart, so a good job done, methinks.
Right, must dash - internet time, you know! Next time I'll write, no doubt I will have tales of being ravished by lions or chased by cheetahs!
Lxxx
As usual, I've had another very full and busy week. It was lovely to get Amy back after her week away with her parents. As it was her birthday last week, I baked her a banana cake which was presented to her after a meal out with the whole group.
Two main highlights this week: our daytrip on Thursday and work on the classrooms.
Mr Mashoto, our neighbour, began his teaching career in a Maasai school in the middle of nowhere. As he returns frequently, I asked if we might be able to come along too at some point. He and his friend (I feel dreadful, I can't remember his name, and he was so lovely!) organised a full day out for us, including a welcoming ceremony and tribal dance BUT we never got to the school...
We went by several Dalla Dallas, effectively travelling to the other side of Mount Meru. Part one of our day-trip was stopping at the foot of a hill with no explanation. "Today we climb" - ok then! Although it was not very tall, it turned out to be a dormant volcano called Kilimamoto. We puffed our way up and were greeted by the most enormous crater, which we scampered round. Mashoto looked liked a mountain goat, bizarrely dressed in his smart work clothes!
The plan was to wait at the bottom of the road for the next Dalla Dalla to take us to the Maasai village. We waited...and waited...and waited... After two hours, somebody came past and told us what was going on: law cannot extend into the rural parts of Africa, and so consequently no notice is taken of regulations. Dalla Dalla owners keep their vehicles on the road far beyond the point that is safe, and realised that they could charge whatever they wanted. Not so. Enraged Maasai would pull out their knives and sticks in objection to the extortionate fare, and when that didn't work, they came up with a new solution - a road block! Between us and the village, every Dalla Dalla was being stopped and passengers demanded to get off and say how much they had paid. If it was too much, they would have to wait by the side of the road until some kind soul offered them a lift, or walk all the way back to Ngaramtony (the nearest town). We had no choice but to do the same. I felt so sorry for the kids who'd prepared an elaborate welcome for us - perhaps we'll be able to go back.
The walk back to Ngaramtony was 5km on a dusty, rubbly road under construction in the blazing sun. Thankfully I had my 'lighter-than-air' walking boots that sped me on my way. Thursdays are market days, and so we were treated to be able to walk through the town that was entirely given over to people selling their goods. It was fantastic. There were sacks of grain, flower, tea leaves next to blankets with carrots piled in towers, next to a heap of pastic flip flops (the standard African footwear) and kangas (fabric ready sized to make clothing). As you walked through the little streets, you passed through smell after smell (tea leaves, spices, etc). It was well worth the walk! We got a legitimate Dalla Dalla home and went to our local bar for a thank you drink. A very memorable day.
We finished painting the outside of the classrooms yesterday (consequently I am drenched in paint that will only come off with kerosene!). It took roughly a day and a half to paint 3 walls 3/4 of the way up, as requested. Mr Mkosi was pretty insistent that it should be plain light blue, and as it is his school, we relinquished our grand artistic plans. It does, however, look very attractive and smart, so a good job done, methinks.
Right, must dash - internet time, you know! Next time I'll write, no doubt I will have tales of being ravished by lions or chased by cheetahs!
Lxxx
Saturday 28 March 2009
some videos
I am writing this from the home of some friends of a friend outside Arusha> Lucy and George must be the most lovely couple in all of Eastern Africa - we have been told to make ourselves at home pool-side and sat down to a huge lunch with...chocolate and raspberry gateau, heaven.
So I am making the most of their fast internet connection now that the electricity has come back on to post some of the numerous videos I have.
Enjoy! Lxxx
So I am making the most of their fast internet connection now that the electricity has come back on to post some of the numerous videos I have.
Enjoy! Lxxx
Friday 27 March 2009
Musings...
I am attempting to write a series of short essays/articles about certain things that have got me thinking. I may send a few to the Arusha Times (who are keen to publish articles from volunteers) and maybe the local press might be interested to see the thoughts of a Kirkby girl.
Any, here is the first. Enjoy!
Kids are kids
I have the privilege of teaching 70 10-14 year olds in a Tanzanian Primary school for three months. Two months through and I feel as if I am just beginning to understand life here – as much as you ever can.
Carefully, I approached my time in Sekei with few expectations. As a white middle-class Western girl I have been part of the masses swept up by the preconception that every African child walks 3 miles to a mud hut school in rags and has only a few grains of rice to nibble on humbly. I am sure this is true of some places, but I could not imagine that this was true of an entire continent.
Our introduction to the pupils of Sekei Primary was gloriously stereotypical: hundreds of smiling, open faces cheering and clapping and clinging to our arms. A touch of the “oh, thank heavens you white people have come…”
Teaching begins and we soon learn that this is a practiced show to welcome the steady stream of eager ‘mzungus’ (white travelers). Our golden days soon wear off and we see the far more preferable everyday running of school-time lives, to which we are amusing accessories for a long while.
There are pupils in my class who have lost a parent, who have HIV, whose clothes are tattered, who wake up at 5.30 to clean the house before walking 2 kilometers to get to school. So far so very ‘charity campaign’. But these are the selfsame children who pass notes in class, snigger at biological diagrams, play the clown spurred on by their friends, and ask us to give them ‘biscuitees’ or the older ones rudely demand money. It does not seem too dissimilar to my comfortable, well equipped school days.
This leads me to consider if there are prescribed roles in society that are merely played by different actors. If I went to the Himalayas or the heart of New York, would I see the same?
I think the well-excercised ‘nature versus nurture’ debate comes into this. It appears to me from the little time I have spent in an African culture that ‘kids are kids’ wherever you are. There are, however, subtle differences that are shaped by nurture. These children do not know what a Playstation is, but tell them and they will want one. Ask them who their hero is and they will say “Rinaldo”. Their footballs are made from rags and string and their toys are cars made from plastic bottles. Do not get me wrong though, there are many households that can afford televisions and poor-quality DVDs, even if they do sit in a two roomed house. Parents in a profession can save to pay for school fees and some luxuries.
I asked the cheeky-chappy class joker, Daniel, whether money can make you happy. “yes” he says without a moment’s hesitation. “Really?” I challenge, expecting him to be thinking of the material gain, but he stops me in my tracks and restores my faith in human goodness. “No. When I go to America I will make lots of money and give it to people in Tanzania who have no mother or father. I will make a house for them and give the rest to the church.” How many children themselves in America (or indeed Britain) would say that they would spend their wealth on building an orphanage? Precious few, I would wager.
So what conclusions can I draw? I feel that there are characteristics that come to fluition in any form of society, but that there are small but significant differences in the expression of these formulae; one child might play on a Nintendo Wii, one child might draw a hopscotch in the dust. Once child might want to become rich to get a nice house and sports car, another might want to spend his money for the good of an impoverished society.
I have many happy, enthusiastic, warm-hearted children under my wing, but lurking among them is the little oick who stole an iPod from us! Kids are, fundamentally, kids, wherever you are.
Any, here is the first. Enjoy!
Kids are kids
I have the privilege of teaching 70 10-14 year olds in a Tanzanian Primary school for three months. Two months through and I feel as if I am just beginning to understand life here – as much as you ever can.
Carefully, I approached my time in Sekei with few expectations. As a white middle-class Western girl I have been part of the masses swept up by the preconception that every African child walks 3 miles to a mud hut school in rags and has only a few grains of rice to nibble on humbly. I am sure this is true of some places, but I could not imagine that this was true of an entire continent.
Our introduction to the pupils of Sekei Primary was gloriously stereotypical: hundreds of smiling, open faces cheering and clapping and clinging to our arms. A touch of the “oh, thank heavens you white people have come…”
Teaching begins and we soon learn that this is a practiced show to welcome the steady stream of eager ‘mzungus’ (white travelers). Our golden days soon wear off and we see the far more preferable everyday running of school-time lives, to which we are amusing accessories for a long while.
There are pupils in my class who have lost a parent, who have HIV, whose clothes are tattered, who wake up at 5.30 to clean the house before walking 2 kilometers to get to school. So far so very ‘charity campaign’. But these are the selfsame children who pass notes in class, snigger at biological diagrams, play the clown spurred on by their friends, and ask us to give them ‘biscuitees’ or the older ones rudely demand money. It does not seem too dissimilar to my comfortable, well equipped school days.
This leads me to consider if there are prescribed roles in society that are merely played by different actors. If I went to the Himalayas or the heart of New York, would I see the same?
I think the well-excercised ‘nature versus nurture’ debate comes into this. It appears to me from the little time I have spent in an African culture that ‘kids are kids’ wherever you are. There are, however, subtle differences that are shaped by nurture. These children do not know what a Playstation is, but tell them and they will want one. Ask them who their hero is and they will say “Rinaldo”. Their footballs are made from rags and string and their toys are cars made from plastic bottles. Do not get me wrong though, there are many households that can afford televisions and poor-quality DVDs, even if they do sit in a two roomed house. Parents in a profession can save to pay for school fees and some luxuries.
I asked the cheeky-chappy class joker, Daniel, whether money can make you happy. “yes” he says without a moment’s hesitation. “Really?” I challenge, expecting him to be thinking of the material gain, but he stops me in my tracks and restores my faith in human goodness. “No. When I go to America I will make lots of money and give it to people in Tanzania who have no mother or father. I will make a house for them and give the rest to the church.” How many children themselves in America (or indeed Britain) would say that they would spend their wealth on building an orphanage? Precious few, I would wager.
So what conclusions can I draw? I feel that there are characteristics that come to fluition in any form of society, but that there are small but significant differences in the expression of these formulae; one child might play on a Nintendo Wii, one child might draw a hopscotch in the dust. Once child might want to become rich to get a nice house and sports car, another might want to spend his money for the good of an impoverished society.
I have many happy, enthusiastic, warm-hearted children under my wing, but lurking among them is the little oick who stole an iPod from us! Kids are, fundamentally, kids, wherever you are.
"Water water everywhere and not a drop to drink"
I realise that I have not written about a very large part of our lives, so this post is to make amends. Our domestic routine is measured in water units: one bucket to flush the loo, half a bucket to boil a kettle for washing up, two buckets to wash clothes and one bucket to wash ourselves.
We do have taps, and for a golden fortnight there was water surging through them, but since then, nothing. After 6 weeks we asked for the pipe to be repaired but the Tanzanian sense of urgency has prevailed! Actually, I'm not too bothered (it outweighs the unexpected opportunities for luxury) but the novelty does wear off when all four of us need to do a load of washing and showering. Consequently, I smell..!
This is how the collection routine works: we go to the mountain stream in the forest about 200 yards away with a bucket and 5l bottle each. We jump over the stagnant water to the trickle running through the rocks from Mt Meru where we scoop water into the various receptacles and pass them back to the path. One of us invariably slips over on the mud - my turn today! Alas poor dignity, I knew it well! We scramble up the bank taking care not to spill any of our precious load and waddle back to the house. Last week, two girls my age taught me how to carry a full bucket on my head. I love it - cue Mama Africa! I'm practising so that by the time I leave I can do it with no hands.
We actually find it easier when we've had a string of dry days; ironically rain is a nightmare! When it's dry the water is clear, when it is wet the water is murky. We have to leave the buckets for about an hour so that the mud sinks to the bottom and we are able to start the purification process.
Pippa has a whizzy pump that is our main form of purification. Disaster struck though when the filter broke so we had about 3 weeks of boiling for 10 minutes, or filtering through a clean t-shirt before adding iodine drops (that taste foul, by the way). Eventually a brand new pump arrived by courier from Nairobi - her dad sent a snotty e-mail to the manufacturer.
I have a clever bottle that I use a lot (despite the fact that you need a degree in order to screw the top on so that it does not leak). You fill it with dirty water, attempt to put the lid on that has a filter, shake it vigorously so that the iodine drops into it. After 15 minutes you can start drinking - it has to go through the filter to reach your mouth so you get a double whammy. The teachers are fascinated by it!
On average, we have to do about 3 trips a days of 3 buckets and 3 bottles. The kids are a great help during the school day, even if you do have to bribe them with stickers.
So that is that. I will do some more 'features' on other nitty-gritty aspects of life that I don't often write about. Hope this helps to give you more of an idea about daily life in the Sekei household. Next time you run a bath, think of me!
Lxxx
We do have taps, and for a golden fortnight there was water surging through them, but since then, nothing. After 6 weeks we asked for the pipe to be repaired but the Tanzanian sense of urgency has prevailed! Actually, I'm not too bothered (it outweighs the unexpected opportunities for luxury) but the novelty does wear off when all four of us need to do a load of washing and showering. Consequently, I smell..!
This is how the collection routine works: we go to the mountain stream in the forest about 200 yards away with a bucket and 5l bottle each. We jump over the stagnant water to the trickle running through the rocks from Mt Meru where we scoop water into the various receptacles and pass them back to the path. One of us invariably slips over on the mud - my turn today! Alas poor dignity, I knew it well! We scramble up the bank taking care not to spill any of our precious load and waddle back to the house. Last week, two girls my age taught me how to carry a full bucket on my head. I love it - cue Mama Africa! I'm practising so that by the time I leave I can do it with no hands.
We actually find it easier when we've had a string of dry days; ironically rain is a nightmare! When it's dry the water is clear, when it is wet the water is murky. We have to leave the buckets for about an hour so that the mud sinks to the bottom and we are able to start the purification process.
Pippa has a whizzy pump that is our main form of purification. Disaster struck though when the filter broke so we had about 3 weeks of boiling for 10 minutes, or filtering through a clean t-shirt before adding iodine drops (that taste foul, by the way). Eventually a brand new pump arrived by courier from Nairobi - her dad sent a snotty e-mail to the manufacturer.
I have a clever bottle that I use a lot (despite the fact that you need a degree in order to screw the top on so that it does not leak). You fill it with dirty water, attempt to put the lid on that has a filter, shake it vigorously so that the iodine drops into it. After 15 minutes you can start drinking - it has to go through the filter to reach your mouth so you get a double whammy. The teachers are fascinated by it!
On average, we have to do about 3 trips a days of 3 buckets and 3 bottles. The kids are a great help during the school day, even if you do have to bribe them with stickers.
So that is that. I will do some more 'features' on other nitty-gritty aspects of life that I don't often write about. Hope this helps to give you more of an idea about daily life in the Sekei household. Next time you run a bath, think of me!
Lxxx
Monday 23 March 2009
Saturday 21st March Mama Africa
You know, I’m really going to miss Sekei. I’ve said it before, but it has felt like home most of all this week. I have everything; a fulfilling job, a sweet house, friends within school and the community, and a sense of ‘belonging’.
One Wednesday the Hasani-Mkala double act came over to show us how to make bagir (like spicy donuts. Mama Mkala invited us to her house for supper saying we must cook it too, “Otherwise all you’ll do is sleep!” We spent a very enjoyable three hours cooking a meal which I cannot wait to replicate in England. We drank Chai, while cooking, and ginger-infused tea with the meal, which was a sort of bean stew called Ugali and hundreds of roast bananas which we took home.
Mkala’s house is tiny (two rooms) but she has built another two roomed house to rent, which she uses as her kitchen for the meanwhile. We sat around her small kerosene stove (a box about six inches square) on wooden stools draped in her Katenges so as not to get dirty, splitting beans and grinding ginger with a pestle and mortar. I mentioned that I wanted my hair put in corn-rows – the traditional African hairdo of plaits running in tracks the length of your scalp – “I go fetch Mama Joyce” she says and disappears. Soon I have two women tugging and tying my hair. I must say it looks brilliant and it only cost eleven pence! I am going to keep my hair like this until I leave because it is far more practical, especially with no water. I will devote a blog-post to water as this is such a big part of our lives.
I have another beautiful outfit too, that is perfect for teaching. I rarely wear western clothes these days! On Thursday I walked into the staff room in my outfit and freshly done hair and got a huge cheer and round of applause – “You are so beautiful, you are Mama Africa!” My new nick-name. I have helped to make the break-time Chai a few times this week, and Hasani taught me a fantastic hymn that got most of the teachers harmonising.
In terms of projects, I have got lots of interviews done with pupils, my extra desks arrived and I have written the relevant names on with pencil ready for painting, I should be talking to Fundi about my display board on Monday and we have set dates for starting work on the classrooms (28th March).
The whole school has mid-term tests all of next week, for which Pippa and I have written the English questions for standard six. I feel more nervous than the kids as it feels like a test of my teaching skills too, although I know it is not. It was a challenge doing a balanced revision session having just written the questions – Oh boy – I hope they revise this weekend! When I am not taking the tests, I will be invigilating, so no lesson plans this week – hurray!
Money evaporates as fast as water if you are not careful, and so I am monitoring my expenditure military style! I have allocated x-amount for certain things (30,000 for kitty, 20,000 for transport per week, for example) and keep a note of absolutely everything I spend. It all goes into a big table on my wall, from which I calculate the overall weekly costs and all of the sub-divisions. Over the top, I know, but I have to cut down the costs considerably. The group likes to go out for meals/swimming/clubbing a lot which I’m not that fussed about, so I am only going out once or twice a week and try to avoid going into Arusha as much as possible. I actually prefer it this way because I spend more time in Sekei and get some ‘me-time’ which I always enjoy.
I did, however, go to Via Via on Thursday night (a bar/club) because it was Tracy’s birthday and her parents were coming. I really admire Tracy; she is 37 and came to Africa with a bunch of teenagers to get more out of her life than her dead-end job offered. I thought it might be odd for all of us, but she’s slotted into the group so well.
We went to Mad’s on Friday to talk about our Safari trip. As it is out of season, we have been up-graded to THE best safari accommodation in Tanzania, full board! Apparently one hotel is right on the edge of the Ngorogoro crater with stunning views. We are getting many more opportunities for luxury than I was expecting – to be honest I have mixed feelings about it, but we do get plenty of the basic stuff at home!
Right, I’m off to do a load of washing by hand and bake a banana cake for Amy’s birthday.
Siku Njema (have a nice day)
L xxx
One Wednesday the Hasani-Mkala double act came over to show us how to make bagir (like spicy donuts. Mama Mkala invited us to her house for supper saying we must cook it too, “Otherwise all you’ll do is sleep!” We spent a very enjoyable three hours cooking a meal which I cannot wait to replicate in England. We drank Chai, while cooking, and ginger-infused tea with the meal, which was a sort of bean stew called Ugali and hundreds of roast bananas which we took home.
Mkala’s house is tiny (two rooms) but she has built another two roomed house to rent, which she uses as her kitchen for the meanwhile. We sat around her small kerosene stove (a box about six inches square) on wooden stools draped in her Katenges so as not to get dirty, splitting beans and grinding ginger with a pestle and mortar. I mentioned that I wanted my hair put in corn-rows – the traditional African hairdo of plaits running in tracks the length of your scalp – “I go fetch Mama Joyce” she says and disappears. Soon I have two women tugging and tying my hair. I must say it looks brilliant and it only cost eleven pence! I am going to keep my hair like this until I leave because it is far more practical, especially with no water. I will devote a blog-post to water as this is such a big part of our lives.
I have another beautiful outfit too, that is perfect for teaching. I rarely wear western clothes these days! On Thursday I walked into the staff room in my outfit and freshly done hair and got a huge cheer and round of applause – “You are so beautiful, you are Mama Africa!” My new nick-name. I have helped to make the break-time Chai a few times this week, and Hasani taught me a fantastic hymn that got most of the teachers harmonising.
In terms of projects, I have got lots of interviews done with pupils, my extra desks arrived and I have written the relevant names on with pencil ready for painting, I should be talking to Fundi about my display board on Monday and we have set dates for starting work on the classrooms (28th March).
The whole school has mid-term tests all of next week, for which Pippa and I have written the English questions for standard six. I feel more nervous than the kids as it feels like a test of my teaching skills too, although I know it is not. It was a challenge doing a balanced revision session having just written the questions – Oh boy – I hope they revise this weekend! When I am not taking the tests, I will be invigilating, so no lesson plans this week – hurray!
Money evaporates as fast as water if you are not careful, and so I am monitoring my expenditure military style! I have allocated x-amount for certain things (30,000 for kitty, 20,000 for transport per week, for example) and keep a note of absolutely everything I spend. It all goes into a big table on my wall, from which I calculate the overall weekly costs and all of the sub-divisions. Over the top, I know, but I have to cut down the costs considerably. The group likes to go out for meals/swimming/clubbing a lot which I’m not that fussed about, so I am only going out once or twice a week and try to avoid going into Arusha as much as possible. I actually prefer it this way because I spend more time in Sekei and get some ‘me-time’ which I always enjoy.
I did, however, go to Via Via on Thursday night (a bar/club) because it was Tracy’s birthday and her parents were coming. I really admire Tracy; she is 37 and came to Africa with a bunch of teenagers to get more out of her life than her dead-end job offered. I thought it might be odd for all of us, but she’s slotted into the group so well.
We went to Mad’s on Friday to talk about our Safari trip. As it is out of season, we have been up-graded to THE best safari accommodation in Tanzania, full board! Apparently one hotel is right on the edge of the Ngorogoro crater with stunning views. We are getting many more opportunities for luxury than I was expecting – to be honest I have mixed feelings about it, but we do get plenty of the basic stuff at home!
Right, I’m off to do a load of washing by hand and bake a banana cake for Amy’s birthday.
Siku Njema (have a nice day)
L xxx
Monday 16 March 2009
Full of Resolve and Energy…
Friday, 13th March
“Full of Resolve and Energy…”
Before I start this posting properly I must just tell you quickly that yesterday I learnt to carry water from the stream on my head, and I have just been passed a note from my pupils saying ‘Thank you for teaching us, Miss Lucie. You are a very good and very brave girl. Gord (sic) Bless you!
!!NEWSFLASH!!
The new desks arrived by cart yesterday, and are already being put to full use. A very heartfelt thank-you to those who bought the desks. Once I have the names painted, I will photograph them and send you pictures of them in use. Thank you. They have been gratefully received.
Coming home to a mouse/rat-infested, water-less, electricity-less house was a bit of slap in the face after the bliss of Zanzibar, but actually I love my little tin-roofed house!
After only two days of dust and grime, Kat’s very affluent and extremely generous parents visited Arusha for the weekend. As Kat was staying with them in the most exquisite luxury lodge we naturally made full use of a powerful shower and fluffy towels! Her parents treated us to drinks and a beautiful meal, with all taxi costs paid. When they went they left us with all sorts of practical presents – top ranking were loos rolls and water! Seriously nice people. Amy’s parents arrive on Friday – what a flurry of visitors!
On Thursday Mama Hasani, the bubbliest middle-aged teacher in the staff room, took us to meet her sweet (and enormous!) little granddaughter, and showed us literally all the family photos. There were a fair few…. The quieter, but equally lovely Mama Mkala invited us to her house this evening, in a bid not to be out done by her good friend and rival! She held my hand all the way home, and we were left with strict instructions to come again for UGALI. I love visiting people’s houses as they offer such generosity and it’s a chance to see far more clearly how professional Tanzanians' lives tick.
My resolve to learn more Swahili began in earnest with Mama Kessy on Friday – she taught me reams of vocabulary including a song to remember the days of the week, a catchy little number….
Back to the most important thing – school. Teaching has been a joy this week. I have started the topic of description, first covering emotions. It has far more creative opportunities than other topics and, Alleluia!, the kids have understood and enjoyed my new-fangled ideas. One example is flash cards. We give each word from the vocabulary list an action; e.g. they cross their arms and say “Hmmph!” for grumpy. I would hold up a card with a word on, and they have to say it and do the action. It’s a big hit!
My resolution number two – to throw myself into school life more – led to another singing club (not entirely successful, more of a brawl!) and watching Mr Lugenge’s seventh grade lesson. He teaches social studies, but feels that the textbook will not be good enough for the coming exam. His lesson was like Hector’s enriching General Studies lesson in ‘The History Boys’. It was over two hours of explaining anything from Australia’s chicken success, to why some people are Albinos, to IVF treatment!
If a pupil stood up to ask a question, he would give them a full and proper answer. I’m very keen to get involved in this, and so will help Mr Lugenge prepare some topics and hopefully give a few mini lectures (in English with him translating) about maybe philosophy or politics or English cultural history. I cannot wait – I will keep you posted.
In my new and improved ‘resolved and energised’ state I have got a number of school improvements going. My personal project is to make a big display board with a secure Perspex cover to go on the back wall of my classroom. Disappointingly, anything left on the wall gets stolen. It’s very sad, but I have to accept that's how it is. This way I can put up long-term displays and screw the cover on so that they actually stay there.
Amy has a pot of gold to spend on school, so I spent sometime with Mr Mkosi and a Fundi (builder) discussing school improvements. (Amy couldn’t come, but we will project-manage this together.)
The three classrooms in the outer block next to me will get their rooms finished with ceiling tiles, 7A will maybe get a repaired floor, and we will ourselves paint the outside walls in a bright colour with artwork, hand prints and ‘Welcome to Sekei Primary’. You see the building as you walk up the road, so the school is keen for it to look attractive and create a good impression. There is a lot of work involved – step one is drawing some designs to have a staff-and-pupils vote. To keep labour costs down we will be doing all of the painting ourselves plus helping to mix concrete etc! I’m very excited about this.
Such a lot to write this week, and I have left reams out! I hope next time I write I will be able to update you on these various projects.
Tutaonana Badaye!
Lucie xxx
“Full of Resolve and Energy…”
Before I start this posting properly I must just tell you quickly that yesterday I learnt to carry water from the stream on my head, and I have just been passed a note from my pupils saying ‘Thank you for teaching us, Miss Lucie. You are a very good and very brave girl. Gord (sic) Bless you!
!!NEWSFLASH!!
The new desks arrived by cart yesterday, and are already being put to full use. A very heartfelt thank-you to those who bought the desks. Once I have the names painted, I will photograph them and send you pictures of them in use. Thank you. They have been gratefully received.
Coming home to a mouse/rat-infested, water-less, electricity-less house was a bit of slap in the face after the bliss of Zanzibar, but actually I love my little tin-roofed house!
After only two days of dust and grime, Kat’s very affluent and extremely generous parents visited Arusha for the weekend. As Kat was staying with them in the most exquisite luxury lodge we naturally made full use of a powerful shower and fluffy towels! Her parents treated us to drinks and a beautiful meal, with all taxi costs paid. When they went they left us with all sorts of practical presents – top ranking were loos rolls and water! Seriously nice people. Amy’s parents arrive on Friday – what a flurry of visitors!
On Thursday Mama Hasani, the bubbliest middle-aged teacher in the staff room, took us to meet her sweet (and enormous!) little granddaughter, and showed us literally all the family photos. There were a fair few…. The quieter, but equally lovely Mama Mkala invited us to her house this evening, in a bid not to be out done by her good friend and rival! She held my hand all the way home, and we were left with strict instructions to come again for UGALI. I love visiting people’s houses as they offer such generosity and it’s a chance to see far more clearly how professional Tanzanians' lives tick.
My resolve to learn more Swahili began in earnest with Mama Kessy on Friday – she taught me reams of vocabulary including a song to remember the days of the week, a catchy little number….
Back to the most important thing – school. Teaching has been a joy this week. I have started the topic of description, first covering emotions. It has far more creative opportunities than other topics and, Alleluia!, the kids have understood and enjoyed my new-fangled ideas. One example is flash cards. We give each word from the vocabulary list an action; e.g. they cross their arms and say “Hmmph!” for grumpy. I would hold up a card with a word on, and they have to say it and do the action. It’s a big hit!
My resolution number two – to throw myself into school life more – led to another singing club (not entirely successful, more of a brawl!) and watching Mr Lugenge’s seventh grade lesson. He teaches social studies, but feels that the textbook will not be good enough for the coming exam. His lesson was like Hector’s enriching General Studies lesson in ‘The History Boys’. It was over two hours of explaining anything from Australia’s chicken success, to why some people are Albinos, to IVF treatment!
If a pupil stood up to ask a question, he would give them a full and proper answer. I’m very keen to get involved in this, and so will help Mr Lugenge prepare some topics and hopefully give a few mini lectures (in English with him translating) about maybe philosophy or politics or English cultural history. I cannot wait – I will keep you posted.
In my new and improved ‘resolved and energised’ state I have got a number of school improvements going. My personal project is to make a big display board with a secure Perspex cover to go on the back wall of my classroom. Disappointingly, anything left on the wall gets stolen. It’s very sad, but I have to accept that's how it is. This way I can put up long-term displays and screw the cover on so that they actually stay there.
Amy has a pot of gold to spend on school, so I spent sometime with Mr Mkosi and a Fundi (builder) discussing school improvements. (Amy couldn’t come, but we will project-manage this together.)
The three classrooms in the outer block next to me will get their rooms finished with ceiling tiles, 7A will maybe get a repaired floor, and we will ourselves paint the outside walls in a bright colour with artwork, hand prints and ‘Welcome to Sekei Primary’. You see the building as you walk up the road, so the school is keen for it to look attractive and create a good impression. There is a lot of work involved – step one is drawing some designs to have a staff-and-pupils vote. To keep labour costs down we will be doing all of the painting ourselves plus helping to mix concrete etc! I’m very excited about this.
Such a lot to write this week, and I have left reams out! I hope next time I write I will be able to update you on these various projects.
Tutaonana Badaye!
Lucie xxx
Saturday 7 March 2009
cont...
We spent the majority of our time in Nungwi, 'traveler's central', although it was not at all what I had imagined - no hint of hideous concrete hotels and 'the Brit abroad'. Instead, we discovered miles of sand as white and fine as silk with a few beech side bars and restaurants under the traditional banana-leaf roofs. A little further along were some unobtrusive hotels and more upmarket restaurants that we were able to indulge in when the budget allowed.
If ever anyone comes to Zanz (I would recommend taking any opportunity!) visit Langi Langi. The absolutely charming manager did his hotelier training in London, but felt pulled back to his home. He certainly knew how to create customer loyalty: free ice-cream, very generous discounts because we are Tanz residents and teachers, fishing for squid then serving it to us as a yummy free dish in the evening. And the food, wow. Exquisite by any British upmarket restaurant's standards.
I'm going to have to be selective about what I write about, otherwise this post will turn into a novel...
'Can't believe it' moment #1
Sipping a fresh pina colada watching the silhouetted dhows (traditional sailing boats) bobbing around in the gold-streaked water as the sun went down.
'Can't believe it' moment #2
Being sat in the sand at dusk with a rasta guitarist being played everything from self-composed reggae to Bob Marley to Oasis. I ate the best lichee (?sp) of my life (yes, I have had it before...) and harmonised with him.
'Cant believe it' moment #3
Snorkeling.
After going through my budget with a fine toothcomb, I allowed myself the luxery of $20 to go snorkeling. I am so glad I did, I will look back at it for the rest of my life, and look at it as a yardstick for happiness. A dhow took a group of around 30 to coral off the shore of the epitome of a paradise island, where we swam with over 100 varieties of fish over vivid coral of all shapes and sizes. We saw some dolphins playing nearer the mainland, but it was too far for us to reach them.
When we had all slopped back into the boat, we were taken to an all-but deserted stretch of beech. We waded through the surf to where we had the most exquisite tuna with ground garlic and ginger, and rice. I met so many interesting people, including 4 medical staff from an aid station in the Sudan (on R&R) and an engineer/artist who was behind the 'growing' stage at the Winter Olympics at Salt Lake City. He showed us pictures on his iphone and listened politely as I asked for any advice for my brother's engineering ambitions. We eventually drifted back to Nungwi and spent the night at the eccentric hippy/rasta bar where you sit in boats of hammocks and politely decline the sheisha (local weed).
It was actually quite nice coming back to Arusha - made me realise how much I see it as my home now. Having said that, the journey was pretty grim, but I prefer to call it 'adventurous'! Very early ferry (2hrs of sea-sickness), apparently missing our choice of coach, having no option but to take the dodgy bus that had people jumping on and off while moving for a good 10 miles, 11 hours sat on it with one brief stop, breaking down three times in the back-end-of-beyond, and having to pay double the fee to everyone else - the curse of the mzungu!
It was, however, an excellent way to see just how varied Tanzania's landscape is and have time to ponder over my very fortunate life. I'm glad we had that journey because it means I can get the tremendously strong desire to strangle the conning protagonists from Saibaba well out the way before Jon comes out! Hopefully I will be as chillaxed as a cucumber and take the 'meh, this is Africa' approach for our 2months traveling.
I have returned home full of resolve and energy. I have lots more ideas (like compiling a number of interviews with pupils and staff on my ipod), and my lenten resolution is to learn much more Swahili. Roll on the next 6 weeks (but not too fast please, I want to savour every moment)!
Tutaonana badaye (see you later)
Lxxx
If ever anyone comes to Zanz (I would recommend taking any opportunity!) visit Langi Langi. The absolutely charming manager did his hotelier training in London, but felt pulled back to his home. He certainly knew how to create customer loyalty: free ice-cream, very generous discounts because we are Tanz residents and teachers, fishing for squid then serving it to us as a yummy free dish in the evening. And the food, wow. Exquisite by any British upmarket restaurant's standards.
I'm going to have to be selective about what I write about, otherwise this post will turn into a novel...
'Can't believe it' moment #1
Sipping a fresh pina colada watching the silhouetted dhows (traditional sailing boats) bobbing around in the gold-streaked water as the sun went down.
'Can't believe it' moment #2
Being sat in the sand at dusk with a rasta guitarist being played everything from self-composed reggae to Bob Marley to Oasis. I ate the best lichee (?sp) of my life (yes, I have had it before...) and harmonised with him.
'Cant believe it' moment #3
Snorkeling.
After going through my budget with a fine toothcomb, I allowed myself the luxery of $20 to go snorkeling. I am so glad I did, I will look back at it for the rest of my life, and look at it as a yardstick for happiness. A dhow took a group of around 30 to coral off the shore of the epitome of a paradise island, where we swam with over 100 varieties of fish over vivid coral of all shapes and sizes. We saw some dolphins playing nearer the mainland, but it was too far for us to reach them.
When we had all slopped back into the boat, we were taken to an all-but deserted stretch of beech. We waded through the surf to where we had the most exquisite tuna with ground garlic and ginger, and rice. I met so many interesting people, including 4 medical staff from an aid station in the Sudan (on R&R) and an engineer/artist who was behind the 'growing' stage at the Winter Olympics at Salt Lake City. He showed us pictures on his iphone and listened politely as I asked for any advice for my brother's engineering ambitions. We eventually drifted back to Nungwi and spent the night at the eccentric hippy/rasta bar where you sit in boats of hammocks and politely decline the sheisha (local weed).
It was actually quite nice coming back to Arusha - made me realise how much I see it as my home now. Having said that, the journey was pretty grim, but I prefer to call it 'adventurous'! Very early ferry (2hrs of sea-sickness), apparently missing our choice of coach, having no option but to take the dodgy bus that had people jumping on and off while moving for a good 10 miles, 11 hours sat on it with one brief stop, breaking down three times in the back-end-of-beyond, and having to pay double the fee to everyone else - the curse of the mzungu!
It was, however, an excellent way to see just how varied Tanzania's landscape is and have time to ponder over my very fortunate life. I'm glad we had that journey because it means I can get the tremendously strong desire to strangle the conning protagonists from Saibaba well out the way before Jon comes out! Hopefully I will be as chillaxed as a cucumber and take the 'meh, this is Africa' approach for our 2months traveling.
I have returned home full of resolve and energy. I have lots more ideas (like compiling a number of interviews with pupils and staff on my ipod), and my lenten resolution is to learn much more Swahili. Roll on the next 6 weeks (but not too fast please, I want to savour every moment)!
Tutaonana badaye (see you later)
Lxxx
Paradise Island
Zanzibar, an island rich in history, spices and beeches, is somewhere I will never forget. It was one of those truly surreal experiences where you felt like you were stepping into a postcard or beautiful picture book. I feel so incredibly lucky and privileged to have the opportunity of travelling available to me.
Our week's holiday was five days on Nungwi's beeches sandwiched between two stays in Stone Town, Zanzibar's port and city.
Stone Town: A beautifully shabby town with palaces, mosques, spice markets, food markets, backstreet 'duka's' selling fabric and allegedly 'antique' jewellery and spice boxes. It's fair share of hustlers too, as is to be expected. We spent a day here to recover from the 10hour coach journey and 2 hour ferry crossing, and spent much of it wandering through the beautiful shabby backstreets.
Most of the doors have beautifully ornate carvings in a dark wood (mahogony?), and you have to dodge out of the way of immams on motorbikes. Definitely one of the highlights on ST was the Forodhani Food Market. This is every foody's dream: when it starts to get dark you do to the water's edge where there are over 100 stalls selling every variety of exotic fish and sea food, as well as meat, rice, naan, sweet and savoury pancakes and sugarcane juice. I put aside my natural aversion to anything from the sea (!) and am pleased to report that I quite like barakuda, although I wouldn't chose calamari in a restaurant! On our last evening, I managed to buy cannily and do a spot of haggling, and was completely full for about 2pounds - not bad!
After a not very pleasant experience on our first visit, which resulted in 4 of the group having to hand over some money, it was very refreshing to meet Abubaker Sali. We were eating our seafood kebabs on the grass when we saw a tiny monkey skuttle across in front of us and onto a smallish man in his twenties. We got chatting, and Abu, son of a vet, had found 'Alladin' in a bush at 2 days old - her mother had abandoned her. He took her home, got her vaccinated etc, and is bringing her up as his daughter! She was so sweet and human-like - when we walked away her face wrinkled and she started to cry! Apparently she will grow to around two feet, and continue to follow Abu wherever he goes. Aw, sweet. Right, sickly sweet stuff over, on to Nungwi...
T.b.c
Our week's holiday was five days on Nungwi's beeches sandwiched between two stays in Stone Town, Zanzibar's port and city.
Stone Town: A beautifully shabby town with palaces, mosques, spice markets, food markets, backstreet 'duka's' selling fabric and allegedly 'antique' jewellery and spice boxes. It's fair share of hustlers too, as is to be expected. We spent a day here to recover from the 10hour coach journey and 2 hour ferry crossing, and spent much of it wandering through the beautiful shabby backstreets.
Most of the doors have beautifully ornate carvings in a dark wood (mahogony?), and you have to dodge out of the way of immams on motorbikes. Definitely one of the highlights on ST was the Forodhani Food Market. This is every foody's dream: when it starts to get dark you do to the water's edge where there are over 100 stalls selling every variety of exotic fish and sea food, as well as meat, rice, naan, sweet and savoury pancakes and sugarcane juice. I put aside my natural aversion to anything from the sea (!) and am pleased to report that I quite like barakuda, although I wouldn't chose calamari in a restaurant! On our last evening, I managed to buy cannily and do a spot of haggling, and was completely full for about 2pounds - not bad!
After a not very pleasant experience on our first visit, which resulted in 4 of the group having to hand over some money, it was very refreshing to meet Abubaker Sali. We were eating our seafood kebabs on the grass when we saw a tiny monkey skuttle across in front of us and onto a smallish man in his twenties. We got chatting, and Abu, son of a vet, had found 'Alladin' in a bush at 2 days old - her mother had abandoned her. He took her home, got her vaccinated etc, and is bringing her up as his daughter! She was so sweet and human-like - when we walked away her face wrinkled and she started to cry! Apparently she will grow to around two feet, and continue to follow Abu wherever he goes. Aw, sweet. Right, sickly sweet stuff over, on to Nungwi...
T.b.c
Tuesday 24 February 2009
Desks and books
Being in an African school makes you appreciate how many resources British schools have. There is a big shortage of desks, and chronic shortage of textbooks - the teachers has one from the government, but the children have to buy their own. Consequently, there are usually 3/4 to go round a class of around 70.
Amy, my housemate, has a fund to buy things for the school, so has ordered 15 desks to be made by a local carpenter. I am going to buy, ideally, 3 or 4 off her, and as many textbooks as I can afford. We negotiated desks down to around 16pounds (30,000 Shillings) each, and can have any names hand-painted on the front by a sign-writer. I am investigating textbooks. The price varies hugely - from about 3 pounds 50 to 10 pounds. I know I will buy a bare minimum of three to give as a gift to Allan's children, our Swahili teacher from the first week, and 'Tanzanian Father' (he came round for tea and chocolate pudding on Thursday, I forgot to mention).
I am always so aware and grateful of how much people have supported me in coming to Africa, so am more than willing to fund this personally (and pay it off from working in the summer). If, however, you would like to contribute anything at all, even if it is just a few pounds, it will make a huge difference. If any groups or individuals would like to sponsor a whole desk, I can get the name painted by a sign-writer and take a photo of it in use. This is not a 'charity appeal', it is simply letting you know how I would like to help the schools. If you would like to contribute anything towards the costs, please let my mum, Sarah, know and she can transfer any money into my account. sarah@warefamily.org.uk 01751 430734.
Thank you. I will keep the blog updated with anything I buy.
Lxxx
Amy, my housemate, has a fund to buy things for the school, so has ordered 15 desks to be made by a local carpenter. I am going to buy, ideally, 3 or 4 off her, and as many textbooks as I can afford. We negotiated desks down to around 16pounds (30,000 Shillings) each, and can have any names hand-painted on the front by a sign-writer. I am investigating textbooks. The price varies hugely - from about 3 pounds 50 to 10 pounds. I know I will buy a bare minimum of three to give as a gift to Allan's children, our Swahili teacher from the first week, and 'Tanzanian Father' (he came round for tea and chocolate pudding on Thursday, I forgot to mention).
I am always so aware and grateful of how much people have supported me in coming to Africa, so am more than willing to fund this personally (and pay it off from working in the summer). If, however, you would like to contribute anything at all, even if it is just a few pounds, it will make a huge difference. If any groups or individuals would like to sponsor a whole desk, I can get the name painted by a sign-writer and take a photo of it in use. This is not a 'charity appeal', it is simply letting you know how I would like to help the schools. If you would like to contribute anything towards the costs, please let my mum, Sarah, know and she can transfer any money into my account. sarah@warefamily.org.uk 01751 430734.
Thank you. I will keep the blog updated with anything I buy.
Lxxx
Sunday 22nd February
This week has had a number of highlights, of which today (Sunday) is one - we are having a very tranquil afternoon by Lake Duluti not far from Nkauranga where we slept (very uncomfortably!) last night.
Having not used a Dalla Dalla before, I have had so many memorable experiences in the last few days - I love them! Let me talk you through how the whole things works: you see a battered white minibus in the distance which you flag down, you then notice that it is full and will never fit 8 more people on...you'd be wrong! It screeches to a halt and you are manhandled on and the door slammed shut to stop you from spilling out. If you're lucky you get to sit on some stranger's lap, if not, you perch on the engine block or stand with your cheek against the the roof. Dalla Dalla drivers don't know the meaning of brakes - we reached 130km on the main road weaving in and out of traffic! You know you have reached your stop when the man who's attempted to whisper sweetnothings in your ear snaps his fingers for the 25p fare. The brakes are jammed on and you disentangle yourself from the old woman sat on you, and breath in freedom! Love it!
On Tuesday we were invited to a wedding send-offf of one of the females teachers at school. It is a ceremony where the bride's family 'hand over' their daughter to the groom's. Wedding contractors camouflaged the hall in white roses, put on the most collosal spread (I earnt a new level of respect from Mr Kiembe - a teacher who translated for us - by finishing my meal despite his gloomy predictions!), and hired the most fantastic 'rough and ready' band who played almost continually for six hour. Highlights: whole roasted goat with fur entact on the head wheeled down the aisle, the bridesmaids and close friends dancing the conga round the wedding car, and dancing in a procession down the aisle to give the bride her gifts. The ceremony was as big if not bigger than some British weddings, but the actual wedding was on Saturday five hours away at Tanga, and apparently even larger. Astonishing!
My class has finished writing a letter to our friend Adrian's school in Lymington, and I got the photos developed for them today (Tuesday). Unfortunately, and VERY frustratingly, I missed the post by just 10 mins. I will have to e-mail the letter, as I am going away for a week, and will post it when I get back.
Going away, yes, we're off to Zanzibar! Our 10 hour bus journey tomorrow (Weds) means we leave our house at 4.30 am, and won't arrive in Stone Town until about 7pm. I must say, a week of relaxing on a beach with a good book and no little oiks rattling the grate and demanding stickers and money (a really unpleasant turn of attitudes in some of the older kids) will be most welcome! I would like to think I've earned a bit of a holiday. We will be back into full school routine on the following Thursday.
There is so much more to say, but I am having to be selective because of the sheer volume of stories and anecdotes.
You probably won't hear from me for over a week, as I imagine it will be quite difficult to find an internet cafe (for a reasonable price) on Zanzi.
By for now! Lxxx
Having not used a Dalla Dalla before, I have had so many memorable experiences in the last few days - I love them! Let me talk you through how the whole things works: you see a battered white minibus in the distance which you flag down, you then notice that it is full and will never fit 8 more people on...you'd be wrong! It screeches to a halt and you are manhandled on and the door slammed shut to stop you from spilling out. If you're lucky you get to sit on some stranger's lap, if not, you perch on the engine block or stand with your cheek against the the roof. Dalla Dalla drivers don't know the meaning of brakes - we reached 130km on the main road weaving in and out of traffic! You know you have reached your stop when the man who's attempted to whisper sweetnothings in your ear snaps his fingers for the 25p fare. The brakes are jammed on and you disentangle yourself from the old woman sat on you, and breath in freedom! Love it!
On Tuesday we were invited to a wedding send-offf of one of the females teachers at school. It is a ceremony where the bride's family 'hand over' their daughter to the groom's. Wedding contractors camouflaged the hall in white roses, put on the most collosal spread (I earnt a new level of respect from Mr Kiembe - a teacher who translated for us - by finishing my meal despite his gloomy predictions!), and hired the most fantastic 'rough and ready' band who played almost continually for six hour. Highlights: whole roasted goat with fur entact on the head wheeled down the aisle, the bridesmaids and close friends dancing the conga round the wedding car, and dancing in a procession down the aisle to give the bride her gifts. The ceremony was as big if not bigger than some British weddings, but the actual wedding was on Saturday five hours away at Tanga, and apparently even larger. Astonishing!
My class has finished writing a letter to our friend Adrian's school in Lymington, and I got the photos developed for them today (Tuesday). Unfortunately, and VERY frustratingly, I missed the post by just 10 mins. I will have to e-mail the letter, as I am going away for a week, and will post it when I get back.
Going away, yes, we're off to Zanzibar! Our 10 hour bus journey tomorrow (Weds) means we leave our house at 4.30 am, and won't arrive in Stone Town until about 7pm. I must say, a week of relaxing on a beach with a good book and no little oiks rattling the grate and demanding stickers and money (a really unpleasant turn of attitudes in some of the older kids) will be most welcome! I would like to think I've earned a bit of a holiday. We will be back into full school routine on the following Thursday.
There is so much more to say, but I am having to be selective because of the sheer volume of stories and anecdotes.
You probably won't hear from me for over a week, as I imagine it will be quite difficult to find an internet cafe (for a reasonable price) on Zanzi.
By for now! Lxxx
Wednesday 18 February 2009
Good week
I said that next time I write I am sure to have had a much more eventful week, and thus it is!
Where to start...
Thursday
A very stimulating day. Mads visited the school and took us to see the special needs class at the neighbouring school, Naurei. We are all keen to help out when possible, because it will be a better opportunity to do more creative things like face painting and music-making than at Sekei. The kids have a variety of 'disabilities', that in England might not necessarily mean being separated from mainstream - down syndrome, autism and deafness are some.
In the afternoon we went to the UN! The countless trials for the Rwandan Genocide have been taking place in Arusha for 5 years, and due to last for 5 years more. We watched the defence of a Catholic Priest who gave shelter to two fugitives at his college. The question was whether he then organised their murder. I'm so glad I went - I think it could the basis for numerous stimulating discussions at university!
Friday
Nothing particularly eventful, but a good day's teaching. I did my first singing club, which was great fun, but not particularly harmonious! My xmas present from mum and dad was a very amusing little keyboard powered by a tube you blow down. The teachers in the staffroom were even more excited by it than the kids, and I had to promise to bring it in again on Monday for them to play!
Saturday
Our Valentine's Day party. I spring-cleaned the house, decorated, bought veg locally, and purified huge amounts of water while the others did a bigger shop nearby. I have to say, we put on a decent spread on a tight budget - pruscetta and salsa, guacamole, bucket-loads of toast, and a few crisps and marshmallows. We had a bonfire (with our rubbish - the only waste disposal method in Tanzania) which attracted lots of the cheeky kids.
In the evening, I spoke to our teacher and IT guru friend, Adrian, about swapping letters with his school (Hordle Walhampton near Lymington in the New Forest). More about this later...
Sunday
Utter bliss. The day was spent under a palm tree pool-side at a local hotel, having refreshing swims and eating black forest gateau. And there were fluffy towels! All this luxury only cost me around 8 pounds! Sunday is now officially holiday day :-)
Monday
I did a test of what we have covered so far. I thought the results were pretty bad - most got 4 out of 12 - but I showed them to some staff who were delighted, and said it was above average...oh dear! In my second lesson with 6A I introduced this exciting new letter-writing set up by writing them a letter from me that they had to read out. We will write the first letter to Hordle Walhampton's year 4 pupils altogether as a class. I plan to get the kids to draw lots of pictures etc in clubs this week, and I will take lots of photographs to send as a package to England.
Ooooh, in the afternoon I went to pick up my fabulous dress I have had made for me! It has endeared me to the elderly female population of Arusha hugely!
I am about to run out of time, I'm afraid, so will finish the post on Saturday. Lxxx
Where to start...
Thursday
A very stimulating day. Mads visited the school and took us to see the special needs class at the neighbouring school, Naurei. We are all keen to help out when possible, because it will be a better opportunity to do more creative things like face painting and music-making than at Sekei. The kids have a variety of 'disabilities', that in England might not necessarily mean being separated from mainstream - down syndrome, autism and deafness are some.In the afternoon we went to the UN! The countless trials for the Rwandan Genocide have been taking place in Arusha for 5 years, and due to last for 5 years more. We watched the defence of a Catholic Priest who gave shelter to two fugitives at his college. The question was whether he then organised their murder. I'm so glad I went - I think it could the basis for numerous stimulating discussions at university!
Friday
Nothing particularly eventful, but a good day's teaching. I did my first singing club, which was great fun, but not particularly harmonious! My xmas present from mum and dad was a very amusing little keyboard powered by a tube you blow down. The teachers in the staffroom were even more excited by it than the kids, and I had to promise to bring it in again on Monday for them to play!
Saturday
Our Valentine's Day party. I spring-cleaned the house, decorated, bought veg locally, and purified huge amounts of water while the others did a bigger shop nearby. I have to say, we put on a decent spread on a tight budget - pruscetta and salsa, guacamole, bucket-loads of toast, and a few crisps and marshmallows. We had a bonfire (with our rubbish - the only waste disposal method in Tanzania) which attracted lots of the cheeky kids.
In the evening, I spoke to our teacher and IT guru friend, Adrian, about swapping letters with his school (Hordle Walhampton near Lymington in the New Forest). More about this later...
Sunday
Utter bliss. The day was spent under a palm tree pool-side at a local hotel, having refreshing swims and eating black forest gateau. And there were fluffy towels! All this luxury only cost me around 8 pounds! Sunday is now officially holiday day :-)
Monday
I did a test of what we have covered so far. I thought the results were pretty bad - most got 4 out of 12 - but I showed them to some staff who were delighted, and said it was above average...oh dear! In my second lesson with 6A I introduced this exciting new letter-writing set up by writing them a letter from me that they had to read out. We will write the first letter to Hordle Walhampton's year 4 pupils altogether as a class. I plan to get the kids to draw lots of pictures etc in clubs this week, and I will take lots of photographs to send as a package to England.
Ooooh, in the afternoon I went to pick up my fabulous dress I have had made for me! It has endeared me to the elderly female population of Arusha hugely!
I am about to run out of time, I'm afraid, so will finish the post on Saturday. Lxxx
Wednesday 11 February 2009
General chit chat!
Tuesday
As not a huge amount has happened since I last wrote, I thought I would take the opportunity to write about those little things that always seem to get eclipsed. But first, the inevitable news update:
Saturday was our fancy dress party. There were some stunning costumes including two banana trees, zebra, lion, amazing pineapple, and I was an elephant!
As we had all been into Arusha to have a meeting about our Zanzibar trip (from Weds 25th Feb for a week) and do the weekly shop, I unfortunately exposed myself to rather too much sun. I've taken a few days off school to get back to my normal, hydrated self. The African grasp of the range of maladies is quite hilarious - either you have malaria, or you are fine, and there seems to be a mythical pill that cures all ailments "you must have pill, Lucie, then you will be better"! Monday was a barrage of teachers trying to get me to go to the hospital for a malaria test, but I REALLY do not have it, as I have none of the symptoms and have the best anti-malarials. (I'm writing this on Thursday from Arusha, and I feel a different person, by the way).
Right, Swahili is such a cheerful, expressive language, that I want to share a few of the top 10 phrases we hear everyday:
1) Mambo - hi, how are you? You reply poa
2) Shikamoo - a respectful greeting you are expected to say to anyone older than you. You reply Marahaba
3) Habari - how are you? Nzuri sana - very well
4) Kwaheri - goodbye
5) Pole sana - I'm sorry to hear that (Habari? Nimechoka (I'm tired), oh, pole sana mama...)
6) Jambo - very informal hi/hey. Reply sijambo
7) Mzungu - white person/traveller. We get this all the time!
8) Walimu - teacher
9) Safi - good/great/fine
10) Piga ma kofe - round of applause/clap (we don't hear it that often, but it is a firm favourite as it sounds like 'Pig in my coffee'!).
Let me run you through a typical lesson. The school day is 8 - 2, but pupils must be there there from at least 7.30 - 2.30 to sweep and dampen the dirt. The 40 minutes betgins with the pupils (in theory) standing and saying a classic school greeting to a teacher, often preceeded by a little saying like "if you play you are fine". I tend to have some pupils hand out the marked books while doing a recap of the last lesson. I then introduce a new topic and write definitions they have to copy. Sometimes I do sentences they need to complete, or read out a passage I have written and they have to answer questions, or get them to correct mistakes on the board. One successful lesson was writing a passage devoid of any punctuation, and pupils had to come up and stick some punctuation cards I had made in the relevant places. I try to end each lesson with a game (Simon Says is popular), song, or story. At the moment I am reading Treasure Island to my 6As in installments. They don't really understand every word, but the melodramatic piratey accent is a big hit! My aim over the next few weeks is to get individuals to read bits to the class, and maybe act out a few scenes. I am really looking forward to starting my singing club as soon as I have got over this little blip.
I hope this little vignette has helped you imagine what I am doing here a bit better. Next time I write, I am sure to have had some more eventful days.
Until then, Kwaher! Siku njema (Bye, have a nice day!) Lxxx
As not a huge amount has happened since I last wrote, I thought I would take the opportunity to write about those little things that always seem to get eclipsed. But first, the inevitable news update:
Saturday was our fancy dress party. There were some stunning costumes including two banana trees, zebra, lion, amazing pineapple, and I was an elephant!
As we had all been into Arusha to have a meeting about our Zanzibar trip (from Weds 25th Feb for a week) and do the weekly shop, I unfortunately exposed myself to rather too much sun. I've taken a few days off school to get back to my normal, hydrated self. The African grasp of the range of maladies is quite hilarious - either you have malaria, or you are fine, and there seems to be a mythical pill that cures all ailments "you must have pill, Lucie, then you will be better"! Monday was a barrage of teachers trying to get me to go to the hospital for a malaria test, but I REALLY do not have it, as I have none of the symptoms and have the best anti-malarials. (I'm writing this on Thursday from Arusha, and I feel a different person, by the way).
Right, Swahili is such a cheerful, expressive language, that I want to share a few of the top 10 phrases we hear everyday:
1) Mambo - hi, how are you? You reply poa
2) Shikamoo - a respectful greeting you are expected to say to anyone older than you. You reply Marahaba
3) Habari - how are you? Nzuri sana - very well
4) Kwaheri - goodbye
5) Pole sana - I'm sorry to hear that (Habari? Nimechoka (I'm tired), oh, pole sana mama...)
6) Jambo - very informal hi/hey. Reply sijambo
7) Mzungu - white person/traveller. We get this all the time!
8) Walimu - teacher
9) Safi - good/great/fine
10) Piga ma kofe - round of applause/clap (we don't hear it that often, but it is a firm favourite as it sounds like 'Pig in my coffee'!).
Let me run you through a typical lesson. The school day is 8 - 2, but pupils must be there there from at least 7.30 - 2.30 to sweep and dampen the dirt. The 40 minutes betgins with the pupils (in theory) standing and saying a classic school greeting to a teacher, often preceeded by a little saying like "if you play you are fine". I tend to have some pupils hand out the marked books while doing a recap of the last lesson. I then introduce a new topic and write definitions they have to copy. Sometimes I do sentences they need to complete, or read out a passage I have written and they have to answer questions, or get them to correct mistakes on the board. One successful lesson was writing a passage devoid of any punctuation, and pupils had to come up and stick some punctuation cards I had made in the relevant places. I try to end each lesson with a game (Simon Says is popular), song, or story. At the moment I am reading Treasure Island to my 6As in installments. They don't really understand every word, but the melodramatic piratey accent is a big hit! My aim over the next few weeks is to get individuals to read bits to the class, and maybe act out a few scenes. I am really looking forward to starting my singing club as soon as I have got over this little blip.
I hope this little vignette has helped you imagine what I am doing here a bit better. Next time I write, I am sure to have had some more eventful days.
Until then, Kwaher! Siku njema (Bye, have a nice day!) Lxxx
Sunday 8 February 2009
Friday, February 6th.
This week just keeps getting better. If I had a list of what I want to get out of Africa, most of it would be ticked off.
Yesterday we were relaxing in the sun, and I was half-heartedly making teaching aids. Groups of kids wandered over and played good-naturedly with paper and pens. One made a crown saying “King Nickson”. When they went, a group of girls came and plaited our hair while some lads played what I can only guess was cricket. My ‘cheeky-chappie’ mate Daniel from class 6A found his vocation as a photographer with my camera and shades.
Mama Hasani and Mama Kessy came over and spent a fantastic few hours making chapattis with us. I taught them an African song which we used to sing at church which sounded incredible and much more authentic!
In the evening we went to Via Via. Thursday is the night for live music and there was the most incredible band playing traditional music, with some enormously energetic dancers! I know it was a show for the Mzungus (a word for white people – kids shout it at us constantly), but the fire-eating witch-doctor was quite a spectacle. I have sampled the Tanzanian Vodka, Konyagi... I Salsa danced for two-and-a-half hours constantly, with pretty much everyone on the dance floor including three Masai tribesmen! The others had a very merry time too, and it was a real effort to persuade them to get into the taxi. We rolled into bed at a quarter to two – and had to be up at seven – Yuck!
There is a bit of an odd situation at school. The Arusha Teacher Training College has sent a group of Sekei for a month’s work experience. This means that most of us have to share our lessons. Some classes will have three teachers – thankfully, the plans for me are that I hand my class 3Bs to a trainee and just help out, and have class 6A as my own.
So that we do not feel a bit side-lined, we might do some days at other places such as the special needs class at the neighbouring school, and will throw ourselves into clubs next week.
Right. I’m off to bake a mango cake!
Bye for now
Love
Lucie xxx
Yesterday we were relaxing in the sun, and I was half-heartedly making teaching aids. Groups of kids wandered over and played good-naturedly with paper and pens. One made a crown saying “King Nickson”. When they went, a group of girls came and plaited our hair while some lads played what I can only guess was cricket. My ‘cheeky-chappie’ mate Daniel from class 6A found his vocation as a photographer with my camera and shades.
Mama Hasani and Mama Kessy came over and spent a fantastic few hours making chapattis with us. I taught them an African song which we used to sing at church which sounded incredible and much more authentic!
In the evening we went to Via Via. Thursday is the night for live music and there was the most incredible band playing traditional music, with some enormously energetic dancers! I know it was a show for the Mzungus (a word for white people – kids shout it at us constantly), but the fire-eating witch-doctor was quite a spectacle. I have sampled the Tanzanian Vodka, Konyagi... I Salsa danced for two-and-a-half hours constantly, with pretty much everyone on the dance floor including three Masai tribesmen! The others had a very merry time too, and it was a real effort to persuade them to get into the taxi. We rolled into bed at a quarter to two – and had to be up at seven – Yuck!
There is a bit of an odd situation at school. The Arusha Teacher Training College has sent a group of Sekei for a month’s work experience. This means that most of us have to share our lessons. Some classes will have three teachers – thankfully, the plans for me are that I hand my class 3Bs to a trainee and just help out, and have class 6A as my own.
So that we do not feel a bit side-lined, we might do some days at other places such as the special needs class at the neighbouring school, and will throw ourselves into clubs next week.
Right. I’m off to bake a mango cake!
Bye for now
Love
Lucie xxx
Saturday 7 February 2009
Wednesday, February 4th
I’m pleased to report a much better week. After a talk with Mr Lugenge about how I need more support and fewer lessons, he has made a very noticeable effort. It has been such a boost in lessons for me and – more importantly – the pupils. Just his presence means the classes are very well behaved, and their understanding has increased by several degrees by having him explain in Swahili. The TEFL plan is that only English should be spoken in class, but that is completely unrealistic. How can they produce good work if the only way you can describe an alien new word is in a language they don’t yet understand? They are more responsive in games too when the y understand the rules. Yes, Mr Lugenge is growing on me.
Once you get past the caning, he is good humoured, great with the kids, and making an effort to extend an olive branch to me. He has invited me to his church next week, and I would like to go to accept the gesture. One of Amey’s (or “Emmy” as the kids call her) teachers is going to come round tomorrow to show us how to make Chapattis.
We are in the process of planning the big party on Saturday, some form of birthday celebration for Allan, plus a volunteers party (also a trip to Zanzibar at the end of the month). The party is fancy dress with an African theme so I am going as an elephant and Kat’s going as a pineapple! Costume preparation is well underway.
We took a shortcut through forest to Enabuishu yesterday which was breath-takingly beautiful. Banana trees, giant shrubs, a river to wade across – beautiful. And it only took half an hour! Tomorrow we are going to Viavia, a popular bar/restaurant/club, so I’m off for an early night.
Lucie xxx
Once you get past the caning, he is good humoured, great with the kids, and making an effort to extend an olive branch to me. He has invited me to his church next week, and I would like to go to accept the gesture. One of Amey’s (or “Emmy” as the kids call her) teachers is going to come round tomorrow to show us how to make Chapattis.
We are in the process of planning the big party on Saturday, some form of birthday celebration for Allan, plus a volunteers party (also a trip to Zanzibar at the end of the month). The party is fancy dress with an African theme so I am going as an elephant and Kat’s going as a pineapple! Costume preparation is well underway.
We took a shortcut through forest to Enabuishu yesterday which was breath-takingly beautiful. Banana trees, giant shrubs, a river to wade across – beautiful. And it only took half an hour! Tomorrow we are going to Viavia, a popular bar/restaurant/club, so I’m off for an early night.
Lucie xxx
Tuesday 3 February 2009
A good day
Time is rapidly running out at internet cafe, so I will be very brief.
Had much much better morning. Mr Lugenge with me again, and translating, so kids understand lessons much better. He was extremely pleased after one lesson, and said I was an excellent and creative teacher, which it is reassuring to hear after a pretty difficult week.
I've taken a walk down our dirt road to use computer and buy some flour. One of the teachers is going to show us how to cook chipatis soon, and we want to bake a cake to take to the staffroom for break. No electricity or water, but a gas oven!
Attempting the walk through the forest to Enabuishu school this afternoon. Two volunteers have changed school to be there, so we are going over to have a 'karibu meal' (welcome meal).
Got lots more energy today. Ironically the other girls pretty exhausted!
Most go. My fantastic secretary will put a fuller account up when we next speak.
TTFN Lxxx
Had much much better morning. Mr Lugenge with me again, and translating, so kids understand lessons much better. He was extremely pleased after one lesson, and said I was an excellent and creative teacher, which it is reassuring to hear after a pretty difficult week.
I've taken a walk down our dirt road to use computer and buy some flour. One of the teachers is going to show us how to cook chipatis soon, and we want to bake a cake to take to the staffroom for break. No electricity or water, but a gas oven!
Attempting the walk through the forest to Enabuishu school this afternoon. Two volunteers have changed school to be there, so we are going over to have a 'karibu meal' (welcome meal).
Got lots more energy today. Ironically the other girls pretty exhausted!
Most go. My fantastic secretary will put a fuller account up when we next speak.
TTFN Lxxx
Settling down, Sunday February 1st
My first week at Sekei has been an intense experience. As I suspected, I was well and truly thrown in at the deep end: I watched one lesson at my insistence, then I got handed a timetable of 15 lessons a week, split over two classes. Standard 3b – the youngest you can teach – and Standard 6A – the oldest.
After a whistle-stop tour of lessons and deciding which classes to take with Mr Mkosi, we were ushered into a dark broom cupboard crammed with teachers behind mountain ranges of books. Welcome to the staff room! To be perfectly honest, we got a frosty reception. Perhaps they resented having all white volunteers trailing in and out of their school, or perhaps not. In being introduced to Mr Lugenge (6As teacher) – 3A haven’t got a teacher until March, so I am it! – I got a slightly surly look. Before I let you think it’s terrible, I have to say that the frosty welcome was not from the majority. I usually sit next to Ma Kessi who is in her 20s and we get on well.
So anyway, back to the teaching. Luckily I did a lesson plan on Monday evening. The next day I had to teach 6A entirely on my own. I did a lesson where I introduced myself and they had to write a paragraph introducing themselves to me. There were some hilarious results, because not all of them understood. Mpost cards wrote something like, ‘My name is Loveness Ware. I live in Yorkshire in Tanzania. Next year I will be going to University in Scotland’. The pupils had been well behaved but Mr Mugbmga walked past just as they were over excited about coloured paper and pens, so he canned every single child five times. I have never seen children look so distressed and in fear.
My lesson the next day seemed to go really well and I caught Mr Mugbmga hovering by the window and he gave a real complement on the way back to the staff room. Friday however was an utter disaster. I have been doing numbers with 3B so I came up with a game where we go into the field and each kid has a number, so they have to put themselves in order. They went berserk – running everywhere, screaming, shouting. Lots of the teachers saw which was galling because nobody had seen the lessons which went sell. With 6A I tried pair work, and it was evident that they had not understood the week’s lessons at all..
I have got the negative over and done with first so that I can tell you about the few fantastic highlights:
1 On the first day the kids all wanted high fives. One boy grabbed my hand and said; “You are white. I am black. We are friends.”
2 Teaching 3b numbers from a huge number line I have made. They loved it and they started clapping and swaying in time.
3 I taught a group of “too cool for school” lads how to do cricket bowling, surprising both them and myself! Thanks, Dad, for the – at the time – futile attempts to pass on any cricket skills... it obviously made an impression somehow.
4 The crowning moment of this week was teaching about 30 kids the Macarena. The group of very sweet – but very ‘teacher’s pet ‘– girls came over to teach us a calling and skipping game, which attracted much attention. I showed them the legendary British pub dance and they all clapped!! I have a fantastic video which I will try to up-load whenever possible.
We have seen the other volunteers quite a bit which is so refreshing. We have been in Enabuishu and they to us. The whole group has been out in the evenings for the last two nights. We are planning some fantastic parties!
I am not sure what direction to take after this week. On Thursday I had an upset stomach (I put it down to the staff-room Chi which is made from filthy water) and since then I have been pretty exhausted. We are close enough to town to make the long walk an option and to keep our food supplies pretty scant which is not ideal for me. Both of those issues could be resolved by moving to Nkauranga, the school furthest away, because we would HAVE to take transport and we would HAVE to have a lot of food. I am not sure I could face settling in again though. Maybe the answer is alternate weeks at each school.
In the meantime, I have asked if I can do fewer lessons, as I am doing far more than the other volunteers.
Anyway, next week could be an adventure.
Until next time –
Lucie xxx
After a whistle-stop tour of lessons and deciding which classes to take with Mr Mkosi, we were ushered into a dark broom cupboard crammed with teachers behind mountain ranges of books. Welcome to the staff room! To be perfectly honest, we got a frosty reception. Perhaps they resented having all white volunteers trailing in and out of their school, or perhaps not. In being introduced to Mr Lugenge (6As teacher) – 3A haven’t got a teacher until March, so I am it! – I got a slightly surly look. Before I let you think it’s terrible, I have to say that the frosty welcome was not from the majority. I usually sit next to Ma Kessi who is in her 20s and we get on well.
So anyway, back to the teaching. Luckily I did a lesson plan on Monday evening. The next day I had to teach 6A entirely on my own. I did a lesson where I introduced myself and they had to write a paragraph introducing themselves to me. There were some hilarious results, because not all of them understood. Mpost cards wrote something like, ‘My name is Loveness Ware. I live in Yorkshire in Tanzania. Next year I will be going to University in Scotland’. The pupils had been well behaved but Mr Mugbmga walked past just as they were over excited about coloured paper and pens, so he canned every single child five times. I have never seen children look so distressed and in fear.
My lesson the next day seemed to go really well and I caught Mr Mugbmga hovering by the window and he gave a real complement on the way back to the staff room. Friday however was an utter disaster. I have been doing numbers with 3B so I came up with a game where we go into the field and each kid has a number, so they have to put themselves in order. They went berserk – running everywhere, screaming, shouting. Lots of the teachers saw which was galling because nobody had seen the lessons which went sell. With 6A I tried pair work, and it was evident that they had not understood the week’s lessons at all..
I have got the negative over and done with first so that I can tell you about the few fantastic highlights:
1 On the first day the kids all wanted high fives. One boy grabbed my hand and said; “You are white. I am black. We are friends.”
2 Teaching 3b numbers from a huge number line I have made. They loved it and they started clapping and swaying in time.
3 I taught a group of “too cool for school” lads how to do cricket bowling, surprising both them and myself! Thanks, Dad, for the – at the time – futile attempts to pass on any cricket skills... it obviously made an impression somehow.
4 The crowning moment of this week was teaching about 30 kids the Macarena. The group of very sweet – but very ‘teacher’s pet ‘– girls came over to teach us a calling and skipping game, which attracted much attention. I showed them the legendary British pub dance and they all clapped!! I have a fantastic video which I will try to up-load whenever possible.
We have seen the other volunteers quite a bit which is so refreshing. We have been in Enabuishu and they to us. The whole group has been out in the evenings for the last two nights. We are planning some fantastic parties!
I am not sure what direction to take after this week. On Thursday I had an upset stomach (I put it down to the staff-room Chi which is made from filthy water) and since then I have been pretty exhausted. We are close enough to town to make the long walk an option and to keep our food supplies pretty scant which is not ideal for me. Both of those issues could be resolved by moving to Nkauranga, the school furthest away, because we would HAVE to take transport and we would HAVE to have a lot of food. I am not sure I could face settling in again though. Maybe the answer is alternate weeks at each school.
In the meantime, I have asked if I can do fewer lessons, as I am doing far more than the other volunteers.
Anyway, next week could be an adventure.
Until next time –
Lucie xxx
Friday 30 January 2009
Sunday 25th January
Dear Reader – it’s time for cleft sticks! The up-load time from the internet café, and the subsequent costs, are considerable. So from now on we are being ingenious; I ring Dad via nice cheap (but time-lagged and distorted) Skype, and he takes down the blog in shorthand, then types it into the blog from the UK. He says if there are any errors, then they are due to his cloth ears…. He has to write up all the rude words I dictate (see below and share my grief, dear reader – ed.)
I have written this by candlelight in what will be our home for the next three months. We have no electricity and although we are supposed to have water, we have already learned not to rely on it and its sporadic appearance!
We met our lovely neighbours when we arrived. They have the most adorable little boy called Barak and Jacqueline (Mama Mashoto) came over when I attempted to do our washing on the front step with a most amused expression!
It felt quite odd splitting the group up; I feel like we have known each other for much longer than we really have. Allan took us to do our shopping in the local fantastic ‘supermarket’, then the bus we were on toured the schools we were assigned to and our numbers slowly depleted.
We’ve had very thought-provoking times since I last wrote. On the one hand we have had great fun together seeing the sights and schools and spending ‘bonding’ time together at the Greek Club. But on the other hand the reality of the desperate need for aid has really hit home.
A few days ago we visited Nkauranda, isolated, self-sufficient (pretty much) community on Mount Meru where James, Becky and Rachel will be. I spent a long time talking to someone called Mike, about the nature of aid-giving and what the most useful help could be. He is doing a degree in International Development at Godoma so he had a very practical view of it. Allan – my Tanzanian Daddy – who is our Swahili teacher ,broke down the costs he has to pay for his children’s schooling versus his income, and it’s on a knife edge. Again I asked him what the most useful aid would be and he said either school fees paid, or desks/textbooks bought. People sometimes have to buy their own desks at around $40 each.
Yesterday we met simply the most inspirational woman, Mama Taisha from Bourka. At the age of 62 she held herself in a way that just exuded pride. In 1998 she set up a school for orphans with only three pupils who she took under her wing and roof. Today she has 167 pupils and her school is the best in the region. Only this week two parents of pupils died and they have no family to live with. In addition to this devoted vocation, she has started a community of women who have been cast out of society because of HIV/AIDS, childbirth before marriage, husbands dead etc.
They train in tailoring and sell their clothes. Only yesterday Mama Taisha went to a meeting to discuss a mini-economy which runs along the same terms as the Big Issue: The women sell the clothes and bring money back to Mama who can then buy more sewing machines and expand the enterprise. She is desperate for sewing machines and also open to fresh business ideas.
A lot of food for thought.
Yesterday Mike and Eli Nkauranda (dubbed fitty and fitter by the group! an example of when dictation can get messy - the previous statement was not what I said at all!!!) took us to a very remote Massai village community. Do you remember the tribe who ran the London Marathon last year to raise money for irrigation? It was this tribe. We met the main protagonist who was so friendly and welcoming. Despite that we all felt so intrusive and examined. The Massai absolutely hate having their photos taken because they want to protect their culture and think we will sell the pictures.
We went to the filthy lake that is still the main water supply, cattle sale and market. It was, however, one of the most interesting and bizarre experiences of my life!
So I think that quick gloss over brings you up to date .
We have not yet met Mr Hockey (pro: Hokkee) the headmaster, so we are not yet sure what tomorrow has in store for us. We hope we will sit down and plan how to do lesson plans, see the timetable and shadow some teachers, but I get the feeling we may well be thrown in at the deep end and have to take a class where the teacher has not turned up – apparently a common occurrence.
Anyway, I will let you know how things pan out.
Lucie xxx
I have written this by candlelight in what will be our home for the next three months. We have no electricity and although we are supposed to have water, we have already learned not to rely on it and its sporadic appearance!
We met our lovely neighbours when we arrived. They have the most adorable little boy called Barak and Jacqueline (Mama Mashoto) came over when I attempted to do our washing on the front step with a most amused expression!
It felt quite odd splitting the group up; I feel like we have known each other for much longer than we really have. Allan took us to do our shopping in the local fantastic ‘supermarket’, then the bus we were on toured the schools we were assigned to and our numbers slowly depleted.
We’ve had very thought-provoking times since I last wrote. On the one hand we have had great fun together seeing the sights and schools and spending ‘bonding’ time together at the Greek Club. But on the other hand the reality of the desperate need for aid has really hit home.
A few days ago we visited Nkauranda, isolated, self-sufficient (pretty much) community on Mount Meru where James, Becky and Rachel will be. I spent a long time talking to someone called Mike, about the nature of aid-giving and what the most useful help could be. He is doing a degree in International Development at Godoma so he had a very practical view of it. Allan – my Tanzanian Daddy – who is our Swahili teacher ,broke down the costs he has to pay for his children’s schooling versus his income, and it’s on a knife edge. Again I asked him what the most useful aid would be and he said either school fees paid, or desks/textbooks bought. People sometimes have to buy their own desks at around $40 each.
Yesterday we met simply the most inspirational woman, Mama Taisha from Bourka. At the age of 62 she held herself in a way that just exuded pride. In 1998 she set up a school for orphans with only three pupils who she took under her wing and roof. Today she has 167 pupils and her school is the best in the region. Only this week two parents of pupils died and they have no family to live with. In addition to this devoted vocation, she has started a community of women who have been cast out of society because of HIV/AIDS, childbirth before marriage, husbands dead etc.
They train in tailoring and sell their clothes. Only yesterday Mama Taisha went to a meeting to discuss a mini-economy which runs along the same terms as the Big Issue: The women sell the clothes and bring money back to Mama who can then buy more sewing machines and expand the enterprise. She is desperate for sewing machines and also open to fresh business ideas.
A lot of food for thought.
Yesterday Mike and Eli Nkauranda (dubbed fitty and fitter by the group! an example of when dictation can get messy - the previous statement was not what I said at all!!!) took us to a very remote Massai village community. Do you remember the tribe who ran the London Marathon last year to raise money for irrigation? It was this tribe. We met the main protagonist who was so friendly and welcoming. Despite that we all felt so intrusive and examined. The Massai absolutely hate having their photos taken because they want to protect their culture and think we will sell the pictures.
We went to the filthy lake that is still the main water supply, cattle sale and market. It was, however, one of the most interesting and bizarre experiences of my life!
So I think that quick gloss over brings you up to date .
We have not yet met Mr Hockey (pro: Hokkee) the headmaster, so we are not yet sure what tomorrow has in store for us. We hope we will sit down and plan how to do lesson plans, see the timetable and shadow some teachers, but I get the feeling we may well be thrown in at the deep end and have to take a class where the teacher has not turned up – apparently a common occurrence.
Anyway, I will let you know how things pan out.
Lucie xxx
Saturday 24 January 2009
...continued
Sekei, I discovered is pronounced SerKay not Sehkee. It is on the mountain side up a long and very bumpy dirt track with ‘dakas’ (little shops and kiosks) and market stalls everywhere. We can probably get most of what we need from these, including entire outfits made on the roadside for about $2.50.
WOW. It is everything you would associate with African primary schools, which I had prepared myself for it not to be, but it really is. The classrooms are bare apart from a patch of black paint that is the blackboard. The 80ish pupils are four to a desk, which is vastly improved thanks to fundraising on Mads’ part. They are literally a plank of wood with legs. The school was told by the government last year that unless they built some more latrines, it would have to be shutdown – Mads’ husband Ekko paid for some more. The kids were so excited and pleased to see us, and when we introduced ourselves (in Swahili) they gave us a big cheer. When we left to see our house, they all rushed forward to shake my hand and give me highfives. At Bourka we arrived at breaktime instead of during lessons, so they all rushed forward and completely mobbed us! They absolutely loved having their pictures taken, and seeing videos of themselves. As we were going back to the bus, about six of them held my hand or grabbed my arm. (Photos and videos to come)
Anyway, back to Sekei. The Headmaster was very nice and friendly, and very polite. The ‘handiman’ was also great, and he showed us our house. No electricity, no water at the moment, but a gas cooker and hob (We’re the only ones with a proper cooker, so we plan to attempt roast potatoes one evening!). It is more spacious than I had imagined, and very simple, which I am actually really pleased about – if you’re going to immerse yourself in another culture, do it properly! All four of us are hugely looking forward to making it our home – pictures, posters and artwork will all be going up over the due course.
The other two schools we saw were also lovely. Enaboishu felt far more staid and formal, as it is a Secondary school, so the kids weren’t running out with huge grins. The volunteers there seem very happy with it, if a little daunted by the amount they are expected to know. There is a primary just over the road, and it would be possible for them to do some work there too. Bourka is a primary, which has a new nursery with the most adorable toddlers and young children who sang us a song “We love you very much, have a smile on your face” (or along those lines).
This afternoon Allan took us into Arusha itself, which is so bustling and vibrant. A lot of people trying to sell you things, but it is the same everywhere. We now know where everything important is, including the hospital, and have all got new Tanzanian SIM cards, and some of the currency – Tanzanian Shillings (TSH). To give you an idea, a pound is very roughly TSH2,000.
Swahili this afternoon was very useful, and much more laid back than yesterday, having spent the afternoon with Allan. I have learnt a lot already – in fact quite a bit more than the others, as I was the only one able to have even a vague conversation with the kids (Hujambo, jinu laku nani? Jina langu ni Lucie – Hello, what is your name? I am called Lucie…for example), although I have learnt much more today. Incidentally, telling the time in Swahili is bizarre: whereas we start counting from 12, they start at 7 – so
Tomorrow has a visit to the other two school further out of Arusha, lunch at Madeline’s house and Swahili lessons. Saturday, we visit a Maasai camp and have a meal out with Mads, Sunday we do all the shopping for the house and move in to our new homes, and Monday we become teachers!
Kwa heri, tutaona kesho – Goodbye, see you soon.
Friday 23 January 2009
Settling in
(Written yesterday, but unable to get the internet until today. I'm going to have to do this post in stages, so apologies!)
I am finally here - staying at the Outpost Lodge, Arusha, Tanzania.
Tuesday was an odd day; I had been uncharacteristically organised in my packing, so the morning was spent twiddling my thumbs after a quick repack of my rucksack. A leisurely journey to Heathrow where I leisurely met the volunteers, then a leisurely hop over to my terminal and a leisurely cup of tea. Lovely. But the gate started closing during saying an emotional goodbye to mum, so I had to literally run almost the entire length of the terminal (from gate 1-32), and got there with a minute and a half to spare! I enjoyed the flight - I sat next to a really friendly Italian woman who was doing a three week course in Kenya at the end of her degree. I only got about 30mins sleep in total though.
We were met at Nairobi by Madeline, who I can only describe as vivacious and slightly batty... After she hugged all 15 of us, our bags were lobbed onto the roof of our rattly minibus and we set off for an almost six hour drive in stifling heat. The main road is under construction, so about two thirds of the journey was on bumpy dust tracks, competing with pot holes, cattle and goats. We saw a real mixture of industrial (although far removed from Western standards) and rural, modern and traditional. We drove through one village where I saw a Maasai warrior listening to an iPod! The border into Tanzania was like a cattle market, and involved a lot of jostling and shouting at queue-jumpers on Mads' part.
The Outpost Lodge took me back at how green it is after travelling through bush watching dust spirals. We arrived to exotic bird song and went to sleep listening to the deafening crickets. We had just over an hour to ourselves before an almost two hour Swahili lesson with Allan (a teacher from Enaboishu where some of the volunteers will be), who I have got to know much more today (actually yesterday now!) - a very lovely man indeed (who likes Red Bull, it turns out...)
My first impressions of the group (as of our first night here): seem to get on well with everyone. Today I think we all feel like we know each other that little bit better, and a long and deep discussion from under the mozzie nets with my housemates has helped me to imagine living with them. I went to sleep v tired, a little overwhelmed by the busy day and new experiences, missing Jon loads in particaul after hearing his voice, but overall content.
Which brought us to today (yesterday), which has been BRILLIANT! We've packed a lot in, but I am much less tired. In the morning, we went to three out of the five schools, and luckily we went to ours first.
... to be continued, as I have a Swahili lesson shortly! Photos to come asap, but the internet is UNBELIEVABLY SLOW!
Lxxx
Monday 19 January 2009
Last night in Blighty...
Well, here I am...I suppose you could say my African Adventure has begun.
Mum and I got up at an indecently early hour this morning to do all the numerous last minute jobs that crop up, no matter how well prepared you are. A heart-wrenching farewell to Jon and final rendition by dad of Jeeves and Wooster snuggled up as a family meant that I had a late night and early start. I was completely oblivious to the driving sleet on the motorway in my land of nod!
I am writing this from my grandparents' house, who were so considerate in moving to not far from Heathrow. Online check in is complete, the last minute hitch with the bank account ironed out, and the bags are packed (bar a few weight distribution issues - as it is I topple backwards if my centre of gravity shifts in any way!).
As I've mentioned, I will be travelling on a different flight to the other volunteers (as I only need a single ticket, which has certain logistical problems), but I am hoping to meet them at their Terminal before I check in myself tomorrow afternoon. I can hear much fretting exuding from the room next door, but everything will work out - it never does to worry.
So it is time to say a fond farewell to England. The next time you hear from me will be from 'the cradle of mankind'.
Ta Ta For Now
lxxx
Mum and I got up at an indecently early hour this morning to do all the numerous last minute jobs that crop up, no matter how well prepared you are. A heart-wrenching farewell to Jon and final rendition by dad of Jeeves and Wooster snuggled up as a family meant that I had a late night and early start. I was completely oblivious to the driving sleet on the motorway in my land of nod!
I am writing this from my grandparents' house, who were so considerate in moving to not far from Heathrow. Online check in is complete, the last minute hitch with the bank account ironed out, and the bags are packed (bar a few weight distribution issues - as it is I topple backwards if my centre of gravity shifts in any way!).
As I've mentioned, I will be travelling on a different flight to the other volunteers (as I only need a single ticket, which has certain logistical problems), but I am hoping to meet them at their Terminal before I check in myself tomorrow afternoon. I can hear much fretting exuding from the room next door, but everything will work out - it never does to worry.
So it is time to say a fond farewell to England. The next time you hear from me will be from 'the cradle of mankind'.
Ta Ta For Now
lxxx
Saturday 10 January 2009
NEW MOBILE NUMBER
As of Weds 21st January, my mobile number will be:
447872260708.
It should be easy to contact me this way, and my brilliant international SIM card means that I can ring England relatively cheaply. My e-mail address will remain as lucie@laudachoir.org
Not long to go now - beginning to pack my enormous rucksack, which is a logistical brain-teaser!
447872260708.
It should be easy to contact me this way, and my brilliant international SIM card means that I can ring England relatively cheaply. My e-mail address will remain as lucie@laudachoir.org
Not long to go now - beginning to pack my enormous rucksack, which is a logistical brain-teaser!
Thursday 8 January 2009
'Mr Appeal'....
I have bought as a teaching aid (to learn the english words for emotions) a poster of the Mr Men! If anyone has any old Mr Men books lurking at the back of bookshelves, or in the loft, I would love to take a handful out with me.
If you are able to help, please contact me on 01751 430734, or lucie@laudachoir.org before Sunday 18th January.
Thank you!
If you are able to help, please contact me on 01751 430734, or lucie@laudachoir.org before Sunday 18th January.
Thank you!
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