25th May

I suppose it is a good sign that I haven't written for so long - I'm in a supreme state of chilled-out-ness!!

Jon and I are still in Nkhata Bay, having found a fantastic backpackers' lodge with dents in the sofa that have our names on them... Every time we thought about leaving there has been some reason not to, but we will definitely be going on Wednesday with the owners who are going to Lilongwe.
Last week were the Malawian elections, which engulfed the whole town. Hearing that the result had been challenged and that riots are common place, we decided to lay low for a for days. It's good to see people so fired up by politics - it's been the centre of conversation for weeks - until you find out that one of the candidates was stood at the poling station bribing people to change their votes! It doesn't sound that different to the first elections my grandfather helped organise (in Zomba) in the 1960s where the candidate went 'unopposed' - pole sana Papa...

Let me bring you up to date a bit.

Taking the advice of The Lonely Planet and the Tourist Information office at Mbeya, we took the MV Songea from 'Itungi Port' to Mbamba Bay. The port was, in fact, not at Itungi but at the end of a dirt track through a small village; we would never have found it if it wasn't for the cheeky taxi driver. It was fantastic! The major port consisted of: 1 rusty portacabin (booking office), 1 reed hut (departure lounge and cafe), 1 rickety jetty and 2 old, slightly rusty, ferries.
Thankfully we had one of the 6 cabins on the top deck; if we had not splashed out we would have been herded like cattle into the oven-like hold with the other 100 or so passengers. So we rather guiltily enjoyed out 21 hour trip down the most stunning lake. We skirted the Livingstonian Mountains (Tanzania side) for the majority of the journey, stopping at tiny beaches to deliver a crate of coca cola or sack of grain. They are hugely craggy mountains that were wrenched in two (part of the Great Rift Valley). Consequently, they look like beautifully baked bread that has been torn apart.

Mbamba Bay seemed a bit bemused at our arrival - "tourists? Really? I remember those..." It certainly wasn't what we were expecting (all hopes of an ATM quickly vanished) but was one of those utterly fantastic jewels you stumble on by accident.

To be continued...

Part 2 of the African adventure!

Wednesday 6th May 2009

Part 2 of the African adventure is well and truly underway: Jon and I are leaving Mbeya (where we have been since Saturday) early tomorrow, on the first stage of rather zig-zag ferry travel on Lake Malawi, from Itungi Port to Mbamba Bay on the eastern shore, Tanzanian side.

It’s been a busy time since I last wrote, not leaving much time for blog updates, ‘pole sana’. Before my journey to Dar [es Salaam], I had plenty to do with admin and posting newly tailored clothes back to the family, etc. What I hadn’t planned on was having to spend much of my time in the police station and unravelling the mess, with my magnificent mother’s help, that a stolen wallet and iPod entails. Although it was very frustrating and disappointing (I think some of the kids took my iPod) it didn’t spoil my last days in Arusha.

My ‘social diary’ was full to bursting – Mkooosi, Mashoto and Mkala did their best to keep me full of chi and I took a few meals with various staff members too.

I got particularly close to Mama Mkala, who I think relished the opportunity of mothering a surrogate daughter for a while. It was fantastic – I really felt like part of the family, eating, sleeping, slobbing, joking and plucking chickens! Mkala had offered for me to spend the whole time there, so out of politeness I stayed a night in their two-roomed house, loved it, so came back for more! After my wallet was stolen I just wanted a friend and a hug, so felt more than comfortable in inviting myself round and joining in the chores (I helped pluck, gut and roast a chicken that night – fantastic!) Mkala always gets close to volunteers but she said she had enjoyed my company the most. She was so sweet!

Anyway, moving forwards to the emotional reunion with my lovely Jon.
Everything went according to plan in my ‘book of independent travelling’ and on a swelteringly hot day (almost Zanzibar temperatures) I planted myself directly opposite the [airport] arrivals gate, craning my neck to see Jon come through immigration. After over an hour and a faulty arrivals board, I left my spot to find a drink, and in that time Jon arrived. WELL! It didn’t matter though; at that point I was only feet away so our Hollywood-style reunion still happened (without having to send the strings home...) it was every bit as good as the three months of anticipation.

We decided to push the boat out and stay two nights at the charming and, crucially, air conditioned Swiss-gardened hotel. Nice room, nice food, nice shower. It seemed to be a hot spot for businessmen and at the delicious buffet suppers we were treated to an array of delightfully dull characters, some more amiable than others...!
As the heat, cost and hustle and bustle of Dar was too much to bear, we left a.s.a.p. by coach to Mbeya in the south, near the Malawian and Zambian borders. Good decision. It’s a lovely little town cradled in the lush mountains where everything is within walking distance and dirt cheap. I’ve been staying in a great guest house where you get a big room and bathroom for about £3 each a night and good honest Tanzanian food for about £1.50!

Tomorrow we are getting a bus then a 4x4 to Itungi Port, where our ferry for Mbamba Bay departs (a 21-hour [overnight] journey – my idea of blissful travel!) As Mbamba Bay looks a pretty chilled out sort of a place, we plan on spending some time there before heading for the more touristy but picturesque Nkata Bay on the Malawian side. That’s the plan. No doubt Travellers’ Providence will have a few ideas of its own for us along the way!

We’ll keep you posted whenever we can use the Internet.

TTFN

L&J
xxx