Sunday 25th January

Dear Reader – it’s time for cleft sticks! The up-load time from the internet café, and the subsequent costs, are considerable. So from now on we are being ingenious; I ring Dad via nice cheap (but time-lagged and distorted) Skype, and he takes down the blog in shorthand, then types it into the blog from the UK. He says if there are any errors, then they are due to his cloth ears…. He has to write up all the rude words I dictate (see below and share my grief, dear reader – ed.)

I have written this by candlelight in what will be our home for the next three months. We have no electricity and although we are supposed to have water, we have already learned not to rely on it and its sporadic appearance!

We met our lovely neighbours when we arrived. They have the most adorable little boy called Barak and Jacqueline (Mama Mashoto) came over when I attempted to do our washing on the front step with a most amused expression!

It felt quite odd splitting the group up; I feel like we have known each other for much longer than we really have. Allan took us to do our shopping in the local fantastic ‘supermarket’, then the bus we were on toured the schools we were assigned to and our numbers slowly depleted.

We’ve had very thought-provoking times since I last wrote. On the one hand we have had great fun together seeing the sights and schools and spending ‘bonding’ time together at the Greek Club. But on the other hand the reality of the desperate need for aid has really hit home.

A few days ago we visited Nkauranda, isolated, self-sufficient (pretty much) community on Mount Meru where James, Becky and Rachel will be. I spent a long time talking to someone called Mike, about the nature of aid-giving and what the most useful help could be. He is doing a degree in International Development at Godoma so he had a very practical view of it. Allan – my Tanzanian Daddy – who is our Swahili teacher ,broke down the costs he has to pay for his children’s schooling versus his income, and it’s on a knife edge. Again I asked him what the most useful aid would be and he said either school fees paid, or desks/textbooks bought. People sometimes have to buy their own desks at around $40 each.

Yesterday we met simply the most inspirational woman, Mama Taisha from Bourka. At the age of 62 she held herself in a way that just exuded pride. In 1998 she set up a school for orphans with only three pupils who she took under her wing and roof. Today she has 167 pupils and her school is the best in the region. Only this week two parents of pupils died and they have no family to live with. In addition to this devoted vocation, she has started a community of women who have been cast out of society because of HIV/AIDS, childbirth before marriage, husbands dead etc.

They train in tailoring and sell their clothes. Only yesterday Mama Taisha went to a meeting to discuss a mini-economy which runs along the same terms as the Big Issue: The women sell the clothes and bring money back to Mama who can then buy more sewing machines and expand the enterprise. She is desperate for sewing machines and also open to fresh business ideas.

A lot of food for thought.

Yesterday Mike and Eli Nkauranda (dubbed fitty and fitter by the group! an example of when dictation can get messy - the previous statement was not what I said at all!!!) took us to a very remote Massai village community. Do you remember the tribe who ran the London Marathon last year to raise money for irrigation? It was this tribe. We met the main protagonist who was so friendly and welcoming. Despite that we all felt so intrusive and examined. The Massai absolutely hate having their photos taken because they want to protect their culture and think we will sell the pictures.

We went to the filthy lake that is still the main water supply, cattle sale and market. It was, however, one of the most interesting and bizarre experiences of my life!

So I think that quick gloss over brings you up to date .

We have not yet met Mr Hockey (pro: Hokkee) the headmaster, so we are not yet sure what tomorrow has in store for us. We hope we will sit down and plan how to do lesson plans, see the timetable and shadow some teachers, but I get the feeling we may well be thrown in at the deep end and have to take a class where the teacher has not turned up – apparently a common occurrence.

Anyway, I will let you know how things pan out.

Lucie xxx

...continued

Sekei, I discovered is pronounced SerKay not Sehkee. It is on the mountain side up a long and very bumpy dirt track with ‘dakas’ (little shops and kiosks) and market stalls everywhere. We can probably get most of what we need from these, including entire outfits made on the roadside for about $2.50.

WOW. It is everything you would associate with African primary schools, which I had prepared myself for it not to be, but it really is. The classrooms are bare apart from a patch of black paint that is the blackboard. The 80ish pupils are four to a desk, which is vastly improved thanks to fundraising on Mads’ part. They are literally a plank of wood with legs. The school was told by the government last year that unless they built some more latrines, it would have to be shutdown – Mads’ husband Ekko paid for some more. The kids were so excited and pleased to see us, and when we introduced ourselves (in Swahili) they gave us a big cheer. When we left to see our house, they all rushed forward to shake my hand and give me highfives. At Bourka we arrived at breaktime instead of during lessons, so they all rushed forward and completely mobbed us! They absolutely loved having their pictures taken, and seeing videos of themselves. As we were going back to the bus, about six of them held my hand or grabbed my arm. (Photos and videos to come)

Anyway, back to Sekei. The Headmaster was very nice and friendly, and very polite. The ‘handiman’ was also great, and he showed us our house. No electricity, no water at the moment, but a gas cooker and hob (We’re the only ones with a proper cooker, so we plan to attempt roast potatoes one evening!). It is more spacious than I had imagined, and very simple, which I am actually really pleased about – if you’re going to immerse yourself in another culture, do it properly! All four of us are hugely looking forward to making it our home – pictures, posters and artwork will all be going up over the due course.

The other two schools we saw were also lovely. Enaboishu felt far more staid and formal, as it is a Secondary school, so the kids weren’t running out with huge grins. The volunteers there seem very happy with it, if a little daunted by the amount they are expected to know. There is a primary just over the road, and it would be possible for them to do some work there too. Bourka is a primary, which has a new nursery with the most adorable toddlers and young children who sang us a song “We love you very much, have a smile on your face” (or along those lines).

This afternoon Allan took us into Arusha itself, which is so bustling and vibrant. A lot of people trying to sell you things, but it is the same everywhere. We now know where everything important is, including the hospital, and have all got new Tanzanian SIM cards, and some of the currency – Tanzanian Shillings (TSH). To give you an idea, a pound is very roughly TSH2,000.

Swahili this afternoon was very useful, and much more laid back than yesterday, having spent the afternoon with Allan. I have learnt a lot already – in fact quite a bit more than the others, as I was the only one able to have even a vague conversation with the kids (Hujambo, jinu laku nani? Jina langu ni Lucie – Hello, what is your name? I am called Lucie…for example), although I have learnt much more today. Incidentally, telling the time in Swahili is bizarre: whereas we start counting from 12, they start at 7 – so 7 a.m is saa moja asubuhi (the hour 1 in the morning). When you get to midday, you say ‘6 in the afternoon’ (saa sita mchana), then move to evening (jioni) at 7pm. It will take some getting used to!

Tomorrow has a visit to the other two school further out of Arusha, lunch at Madeline’s house and Swahili lessons. Saturday, we visit a Maasai camp and have a meal out with Mads, Sunday we do all the shopping for the house and move in to our new homes, and Monday we become teachers!

Kwa heri, tutaona kesho – Goodbye, see you soon.

Settling in

(Written yesterday, but unable to get the internet until today. I'm going to have to do this post in stages, so apologies!)

I am finally here - staying at the Outpost Lodge, Arusha, Tanzania.

Tuesday was an odd day; I had been uncharacteristically organised in my packing, so the morning was spent twiddling my thumbs after a quick repack of my rucksack. A leisurely journey to Heathrow where I leisurely met the volunteers, then a leisurely hop over to my terminal and a leisurely cup of tea. Lovely. But the gate started closing during saying an emotional goodbye to mum, so I had to literally run almost the entire length of the terminal (from gate 1-32), and got there with a minute and a half to spare! I enjoyed the flight - I sat next to a really friendly Italian woman who was doing a three week course in Kenya at the end of her degree. I only got about 30mins sleep in total though.

We were met at Nairobi by Madeline, who I can only describe as vivacious and slightly batty... After she hugged all 15 of us, our bags were lobbed onto the roof of our rattly minibus and we set off for an almost six hour drive in stifling heat. The main road is under construction, so about two thirds of the journey was on bumpy dust tracks, competing with pot holes, cattle and goats. We saw a real mixture of industrial (although far removed from Western standards) and rural, modern and traditional. We drove through one village where I saw a Maasai warrior listening to an iPod! The border into Tanzania was like a cattle market, and involved a lot of jostling and shouting at queue-jumpers on Mads' part.

The Outpost Lodge took me back at how green it is after travelling through bush watching dust spirals. We arrived to exotic bird song and went to sleep listening to the deafening crickets. We had just over an hour to ourselves before an almost two hour Swahili lesson with Allan (a teacher from Enaboishu where some of the volunteers will be), who I have got to know much more today (actually yesterday now!) - a very lovely man indeed (who likes Red Bull, it turns out...)

My first impressions of the group (as of our first night here): seem to get on well with everyone. Today I think we all feel like we know each other that little bit better, and a long and deep discussion from under the mozzie nets with my housemates has helped me to imagine living with them. I went to sleep v tired, a little overwhelmed by the busy day and new experiences, missing Jon loads in particaul after hearing his voice, but overall content.

Which brought us to today (yesterday), which has been BRILLIANT! We've packed a lot in, but I am much less tired. In the morning, we went to three out of the five schools, and luckily we went to ours first.

... to be continued, as I have a Swahili lesson shortly! Photos to come asap, but the internet is UNBELIEVABLY SLOW!

Lxxx

Last night in Blighty...

Well, here I am...I suppose you could say my African Adventure has begun.

Mum and I got up at an indecently early hour this morning to do all the numerous last minute jobs that crop up, no matter how well prepared you are. A heart-wrenching farewell to Jon and final rendition by dad of Jeeves and Wooster snuggled up as a family meant that I had a late night and early start. I was completely oblivious to the driving sleet on the motorway in my land of nod!

I am writing this from my grandparents' house, who were so considerate in moving to not far from Heathrow. Online check in is complete, the last minute hitch with the bank account ironed out, and the bags are packed (bar a few weight distribution issues - as it is I topple backwards if my centre of gravity shifts in any way!).

As I've mentioned, I will be travelling on a different flight to the other volunteers (as I only need a single ticket, which has certain logistical problems), but I am hoping to meet them at their Terminal before I check in myself tomorrow afternoon. I can hear much fretting exuding from the room next door, but everything will work out - it never does to worry.

So it is time to say a fond farewell to England. The next time you hear from me will be from 'the cradle of mankind'.
Ta Ta For Now
lxxx

NEW MOBILE NUMBER

As of Weds 21st January, my mobile number will be:
447872260708.

It should be easy to contact me this way, and my brilliant international SIM card means that I can ring England relatively cheaply. My e-mail address will remain as lucie@laudachoir.org

Not long to go now - beginning to pack my enormous rucksack, which is a logistical brain-teaser!

'Mr Appeal'....

I have bought as a teaching aid (to learn the english words for emotions) a poster of the Mr Men! If anyone has any old Mr Men books lurking at the back of bookshelves, or in the loft, I would love to take a handful out with me.

If you are able to help, please contact me on 01751 430734, or lucie@laudachoir.org before Sunday 18th January.

Thank you!